Good on ya!

>  What I'm thinking I will do is splice into the black wire off the
>  ignition switch before it gets to A8 connector, install an inline fuse
>  and route the splice to the black coil 12 volt wire, bypassing the
>  damaged D15 slot on the connector.  The black ignition wire seems to
>  power other components on current track 15 across the top of the pages
>  in Bentley or I would route the wire direct with no splice.

Is it possible to cut and shunt in (solder) a new section of wire
before D15, then run to coil?

I would test with a jumper from a pre damaged wire section to coil first.

Neil.

On Mon, Apr 21, 2008 at 10:45 AM, Dan Hall <elektro@westal.net> wrote:
> Following the sage advice of our esteemed list members, I began
>  tracing the black wire from the ignition switch to the to the
>  connectors on the back of the fuse/relay panel.
>
>  12 volt current was fine on the A8 connector going into the fuse/panel
>  but on the D15 connector coming out the voltage tested a 4 volts.  I
>  could see heat damage on that wire.
>  Applied a little JB blaster and warmed the connector slightly and the
>  white D connector came out  of panel fine.   Voila!  The white plastic
>  connector was burned black around the area where the wire to the coil
>  connects--and there was little left of the metal connector.   Don't
>  know if that D15 slot on the connector is repairable.
>  ,
>  What I'm thinking I will do is splice into the black wire off the
>  ignition switch before it gets to A8 connector, install an inline fuse
>  and route the splice to the black coil 12 volt wire, bypassing the
>  damaged D15 slot on the connector.  The black ignition wire seems to
>  power other components on current track 15 across the top of the pages
>  in Bentley or I would route the wire direct with no splice.
>
>  I might even decide to use this black 12 volt wire to trigger a new
>  relay so the coil can enjoy direct battery voltage.
>
>  Or does the coil not get fed with battery voltage from the alternator
>  off the power relay when it closes?
>
>  Thanks for all the advice and help.
>
>  Dan
>
>
>
>
>
>  On Apr 20, 2008, at 9:08 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
>
>
> >
> > The connection points are easy enough to get to, find, and fix. That
> > circuit is also used to operate the turn signals, wipers, etc. I would
> > check the connectors on the back of the fuse box. You can jump where
> > the
> > power goes in and then comes out. The Bentley diagram will give the
> > connector and pin numbers.
> >
> > Dennis
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
> > Behalf Of
> > Dan Hall
> > Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 9:44 PM
> > To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> > Subject: Re: '86 Westy cranking trouble
> >
> >
> > On Apr I bought the van from the original owner in 1993---had around
> > 60,000 miles on it.
> > Now almost 270,000 miles.
> >
> > Since I've been informed that the circuit to the coil is unfused, and
> > to save tracing this wire all the way back to the ignition switch,
> > trying to find the source of the resistance, could I not just use the
> > original wire to trigger a new relay to the coil, the relay getting
> > power off the hot post in that junction box on the firewall?
> > Could even install fuse to protect the system better.
> >
> > Thoughts?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > And I will certainly run some tests to see if anything is shorting to
> > ground and to find any possible restriction causing the poor voltage.
> > Could a short to ground cause this voltage drop?
> > Dan Hall
> >
> >
 > > > >