Tom,
If the ends look beat I don't even mess around and cut them off at the flange leaving enough for a stud puller to grab and pull out.
Snap it off closer to the head and you are drilling for sure.
Just did this job on a carat two weeks ago.
7 of the 8 played nice, one needed to be drilled out and retapped.
ARP make stainless replacement studs for Porsches and some UK companies make T3 stainless studs as well.
If you choose to use bolts to replace studs I highly recommend using two or three washers between the end of the bolt and the flange so down the road if you have to cut the head off, you will have more threaded area exposed and pulling it will be a bit easier with this same process.

Once the threads are exposed, PB Blaster for a day and Heat with CRC Quick Freeze when you are ready to pull them.
Works like a charm for me.  I'm sure there are different opinions and ways to do it. This is how i do it.

Studs get red locktite when going in and bolts get 2400degree anti seize.

stainless
http://tinyurl.com/5ssgj8
http://www.arp-bolts.com/catalog/catalog.html
page 75

dylan

----- Original Message ----
From: Tom Myers <motmyers@HOTMAIL.COM>
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 9:11:32 AM
Subject: exhaust bolts / studs... tips or tricks?

Hey Folks

I will be working replacing my pushrod tins soon as part of the oil pressure gauge installation.

[ 1990 2.1]

i do not relish the idea of snapping off an exhaust bolt in my driveway.  

so are there some tricks for getting these  things off?    

WD40 for a week?  propane torch to the head before attempt?   dremel tool within reach?

Thanks in advance!

Tom Myers
Syracuse NY
1990 Westy
1991 Syncro

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