Hey Mark,

You're right - had to crimp up a jumper wire, but using a parallel ground
turned the fan. So bad earth - looks like it is the furthest away of the
second ground post behind the fuse panel, Maybe that's the headlight issue
too - I guess its time to take them all off clean them up and re apply. I
did try each crimp terminal with a meter to a separate ground earlier, and
didn't see any problems, but I guess its there... Well - that's the next
couple of hours...

Thanks Again,

Paul.

Could they make it any tighter to get in there!!!

On Mon, Jul 14, 2008 at 5:03 PM, mdrillock <mdrillock@cox.net> wrote:

> What you just wrote suggests the bad ground for the fan as I mentioned at
> the end of my reply. Either that or you have multiple problems. The ground
> can be intermittent. I suggest you put it all back exactly the way it was
> and start over. Then figure which 2 wires of the radiator temp switch make
> the relay click. Then but a jumper wire into those 2 pins to hot wire it
> while you look for where the problem is. Start with a wire, holding one bare
> end to bare metal and the other end touch to the fan nut where the brown
> wire is attached. If that causes the fan to move suddenly then the brown
> ground wire is suspect.
>
> DO NOT leave that hot wire installed more than a couple minutes while you
> are right there testing things.
>
> Low speed does not use a relay. High speed does not use a resistor.
>
> The headlight circuit has nothing to do with the radiator fan circuit.
> There is not a relay for the headlights unless someone modified that part of
> the wiring.
>
> Mark
>
>
> Paul Connelly wrote:
>
>> Thanks Mark,
>>
>> Okay cool, that suggests the relay then. I had looked at a bunch of
>> similar
>> issues in the archives and they all seem slightly different with different
>> resolutions. I had already jumpered across the plug and I get the relay
>> "clicking" on contact across the outer two terminals - nothing with either
>> side to the middle. I had tested the temperature switch (measured the
>> resistance - OC at cold, outer terminals short for low, all three
>> combinations short on high) and I initially tested the motor with 12V
>> across
>> it in the vehicle - nothing. So I removed the fan and tested it on the
>> bench
>> - ran just fine. Re-installed it and tested it directly with 12V again -
>> this time it ran just fine. So I retested the switch, same result and was
>> moving through to the resistor and relay - does that make sense?
>>
>> Fuse is fine, as is the earth as far as I can see (Colorado Van, so no
>> real
>> rust issues - all seems to be clean and dry).
>>
>> Also having another issue with lack of headlights except when switched and
>> "held" on main/high beam, so relay is starting to look more of a likely
>> candidate. Anyone know which one it is? - The Bentley is a little
>> confusing
>> on that!!!
>>
>> Once more thanks for the help,
>>
>> Paul.
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 14, 2008 at 3:00 PM, mdrillock <mdrillock@cox.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>> High speed does not use the resistor so that can't be the problem for
>>> that
>>> speed. Only low and medium speed go through it. Don't overlook fuse #1,
>>> on the left end position of the main fuse panel. All 3 speeds use it.
>>> Should be 30 amp.
>>>
>>> With the radiator temp switch wiring plug pulled off the switch, jumper
>>> any
>>> 2 pins of the wiring plug with small needle nose pliers. 2 combinations
>>> should run the fan, 1 at low and another at high speed. Middle speed is
>>> only
>>> run by the A/C.
>>>
>>> Another common failure point is the ground lug for the brown wire coming
>>> from the fan. It plugs into the grounding star behind the main relay
>>> panel.
>>> Many grounds plug in there and corrosion is a major issue on them.
>>>
>>>
>>> Mark
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Paul Connelly wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Hi Volks,
>>>>
>>>> Next question... does anyone know or can check out with a meter what the
>>>> resistance should be on the resistor behind the drivers side headlight
>>>> for
>>>> the radiator fan. I've lost the fan. Checked out the temp switch and its
>>>> fine - both stages switching to open circuit at the correct temps (ish).
>>>> Checked the fan and it is buzzing just fine with 12v applied direct -
>>>> leaves
>>>> the resistor and the relay if the archives are correct.
>>>>
>>>> Measuring at the back of the connector plug I get ~ 6 ohms across the
>>>> outer
>>>> terminals, ~ 4.3 ohms across the two terminals "closest" to each other
>>>> and
>>>> ~
>>>> 1.3 ohms across the "spaced apart" terminals.
>>>>
>>>> Just wanted to check it out to eliminate it or confirm it as the
>>>> culprit...
>>>>
>>>> TIA
>>>>
>>>> Cheers, Paul.
>>>> 1986 Syncro Westy - Hummingbird
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>