

| Subject: | Re: Dometic won't light troubleshooting |
| From: | neil N |
| Date: | Wed, 16 Jul 2008 09:14:08 -0700 |
Hi Frank. I suggested Thomas burp his fridge as in this case it didn't work on any mode. A known working AC source didn't even work! --- :^) Hence the burping suggestion. And Thomas. I too am sitting on the fence regarding "To Dometic or Not To Dometic". That Italian fridge sounds like the one. If the 182B Dometic I have on the bench doesn't do any better in terms of relighting after turning thermostat down, then I'm going with the Viagra, er Vitrifrigo. Personally, I can't see throwing money into new parts to keep a Dometic going. I'll put that money to the Vitrifrigo. BTW, I'm pretty sure you can get the Vitrifrigo in an AC/DC or just DC setup. If you go with DC only, I think you could use a battery charger to run it from shore power if needed, and of course one can use solar. Cheers, Neil. On Wed, Jul 16, 2008 at 2:57 AM, Frank Condelli <RAlanen@aol.com> wrote: > In a message dated 15/07/2008 9:41:02 A.M. Central Standard Time, > LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes: > > There is a process termed as "burping" the Dometic. Basically with the > fridge on the bench, you turn it upside down for 24 hours or so, then > (of course) turn it right side up. I'm not clear on the chemical > aspect of absorption fridges, but I gather that the ammonia etc. may > need a "kick start" to start moving and/or combining again. > > > > > > > > > Burping the fridge will not help to get the propane service working. The > Chemicals in the cooling system are just for that - COOLING ! If the propane > service will not fire up then there's a problem with the propane delivery, > regulation or ignition ! AND, cooling off the fridge for 12 hours on > electricity to get it started on propane may work but the reason it helps is that the > heat produced in the exhaust pipe from the 120 volt heater rises up that > exhaust pipe causing a convection current that inducts fresh air down the intake > tube and that fresh air in the combustion chamber is what makes the propane > easier to light. So.......the moral of that story is to get fresh air into > the combustion chamber to get that propane to light up. And......by fresh air > I mean with a good charge of oxygen as that is really what the propane > needs to light up. So....... that's why the air pump is there. It does not work > all that well so I and many others have had good success by inducing air > into the drain tube at the LH front bottom of the fridge. Remove the cap, blow > air in there from a compressor or with a small diameter plastic tube using > your hot air for the air source ! Also, to note, if you have kept the propane > bypass valve pressed in for a long time without the propane lighting then the > combustion chamber will be flooded with propane as it tends to lay on the > bottom of the chamber instead of rising up out of the chamber, so clicking the > piezo many times or blowing in fresh air without pressing the bypass valve to > expel the excess propane before actually trying to light the propane will > help clear the combustion chamber thereby allowing a fresh charge of propane > and air to light up. > > Cheers, > > Frank Condelli > Almonte, Ontario, Canada > '87 Westy & Lionel Trains (_Collection for sale_ > (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/trainsal.htm) ) > _Frank Condelli & Associates_ (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/busindex.html) > - Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley > _Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust Systems_ > (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/exhaust.htm) > _BusFusion_ (http://members.aol.com/BusFusion/bfhome.htm) a VW Camper > camping event, Almonte, ON, June 12 ~ 15, 2008 >
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