Frank,

Thanks for the tips. This morning I needed an excuse to take my 56 Beetle out for a drive....so off I went to Sears to buy a pair of spring clamp pliers...so hopefully I can take the clamps off my $hit list!  ;-)     Once I get the Westy back running, I'll keep the pliers in my van tool kit.....

Ric

> Date: Sat, 19 Jul 2008 07:16:12 -0400
> From: RAlanen@AOL.COM
> Subject: Re: 87 Westy Engine/Trans removal Day 1 - or Boy,              do I miss my 67 Westy!!!
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> 
> In a message dated 18/07/2008 2:58:59 P.M. Central Standard Time,
> LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:
> 
> As I was  removing the 100th coolant hose (BTW did I mention how much I hate
> spring  clamps!!! Yes, wet toilet, paper cold pizza, warm beer and friggin'
> spring  clamps!! (all of which are pointing in an inaccessible  direction)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>             Richard,  those spring clamps can be a PITA.   BUT, they are the
> best hose  clamps you can have.  Do not under any circumstances replace them
> !!!!  If you need new ones they are available from VW.   There are six
> different sizes, see my _Vanagon Items Forsale_
> (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/sales.htm)  website  under the "Cooling System" header.  To make working with those
> spring  clamps more fun you need the proper spring clamp tools.  Hand held
> ones looking like pliers with different angled jaws are available, remote cable
> operated ones also, these come from SEARS or good tool suppliers. And, to make
>  some of those clamps work easier, the small tab that stops the clamp from
> opening all the way can be cut of with a cut off wheel on a die grinder to
> allow  the clamp to open more allowing it to slip down the hose over the nipple
> bubble.  They were intended to be put on the hose in the proper place and  the
> hose and clamp together moved into location.  However when removing old  hoses
> the hose is usually stuck to the nipple and removing it without first
> getting the hose clamp out of the way is impossible or difficult or  impossible.
> When installing the hoses onto any aluminium nipples use  Loctite Grey RTV
> Silicon Sealant made for use on aluminium.  This will stop  any corrosion of the
> aluminium nipple as your seeing on the nipples of the old  engine.  No sealant
> is needed where hoses connect to plastic nipples.   ALL HOSES should be
> inspected for integrity, the ends cleaned thoroughly so  no corrosion is left behind
> to impede connection to the new nipple or the  hose should be replaced with a
> new one.
> 
>     One more suggestion while I have your  attention.  ALL and I mean ALL of
> the metal pipes, brackets, flanges,  pulleys, plenum, intake runners, etc.
> made from metal that rusts and was  painted originally, or plated and corroded
> such as the push rod tube covers,  engine lower tins, muffler shield, coolant
> tank support, etc., SHOULD ALL be  cleaned, wire brushed, sandblasted, then
> coated with POR-15 !  I do this on  all quality engine rebuild jobs.  Then you
> will always have a real pretty,  clean looking engine.  Just a simple wash with a
> pressure sprayer and viola  - CLEAN & SHINNY !
> 
> _http://picasaweb.google.com/Frankcondelli/POR15edParts_
> (http://picasaweb.google.com/Frankcondelli/POR15edParts)
> 
> Enjoy your father son project - You will be happy with the results when  your
> done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Frank  Condelli
> Almonte, Ontario, Canada
> '87 Westy & Lionel Trains (_Collection for sale_
> (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/trainsal.htm) )
> _Frank Condelli &  Associates_ (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/busindex.html)
> - Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
> _Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust  Systems_
> (http://members.aol.com/Fkc43/exhaust.htm)
> _BusFusion_ (http://members.aol.com/BusFusion/bfhome.htm)  a VW Camper
> camping event, Almonte, ON, June 12 ~ 15,  2008

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