> His next email explained that he was in fact measuring wrong.  He was
> supposed to times it X2 to get the correct number.  When he realized
> that,
> he had to crank it down, because now he'd cranked it up way too high.

Yep -- odd thing is that now with the pressure adjusted correctly, the
flame looks very weak, absolutely no cooling, and the flame LED is
very dim -- I have the blue LED modification, which makes it fairly
easy to judge flame intensity.

I have yet to pull the fridge again, but am thinking now that it's
likely to be a clogged jet?   I had replaced all the gaskets with high
temp RTV so I'm 99% sure it's not an air leak.

Is there a way to pressure test the LPG coming out of the dometic
thermoregulator?  Or is the test basically to see whether the flame
looks proper size/shape?

On Jul 19, 2008, at 6:52 AM, Mike wrote:

> Mike B.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karl Mullendore" <groups@WESTYVENTURES.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 2:09 AM
> Subject: Re: Dometic won't light troubleshooting
>
>
>> On Thu, 17 Jul 2008 09:33:46 -0700, Michael Diehr <md03@XOCHI.COM>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Update --
>>>
>>> A homemmade manometer revealed that my (5 year old) Marshall 290
>>> regulator was only putting out 7 inches of pressure.   I stretched
>>> the
>>> spring and screwed the adjuster in full stop, which only took it
>>> about
>>> 9.5 inches.  So probably my regulator is failing.
>>
>> When you use your 'homemade' manometer, do you measure the
>> differential
>> between the two water levels or only the rise in one side? Many
>> people
>> measure only one side; the correct measurement is the total
>> difference is
>> water level from one side of the U-tube to the other.