Hey John,

Sorry I didn't see your email...

Yes is the short answer. It took a long time in getting to that conclusion
though. I was surprised since the van is pretty much rust free and the
terminals didn't look bad from a casual look. I had also tried testing with
a meter from the spades to a separate ground. But the test using a second
earth wire while jumping the switch plug told the story. When I finally
pulled everything out there was some (conduction) corrosion on a couple of
terminals but nothing too terribly bad. I think the tightening of the crimps
helped (the failure did initially happen when 4 wheeling, so vibrations may
have been a contributing factor...)

Cheers, Paul.

On Tue, Jul 15, 2008 at 9:38 AM, <Trvlr2001@comcast.net> wrote:

> So Paul, I take it then, the problem turned out to be just the ground wire
> on the multi-ground spool under the dash?
> Thanks,
> John C...
>
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: Paul Connelly <vanagonhummingbird@GMAIL.COM>
>
> > Thanks for the help guys,
> >
> > I will try to get around to changing them all over at some point, Scott.
> For
> > the moment I took the connectors all off and the Multi Point Grounds out
> > cleaned everything up and tightened all of the spades and reconnected
> > everything. Fan now works perfectly on low and high!
> >
> > Still no head lights but that's a job for tomorrow....
> >
> > Have a great evening,
> >
> > Cheers, Paul.
> >
> > On Mon, Jul 14, 2008 at 6:40 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans <
> > scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
> >
> > > if you are talking about that multi-ground point with push-on spade
> > > terminals...........
> > > way mo betta to convert them to screw and eye grounding terminals.
> > > Be sure to put a star type pointy washer betwixt the wire terminal and
> the
> > > body of the van.
> > > scott
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Connelly" <
> > > vanagonhummingbird@GMAIL.COM>
> > > To:
> > > Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 4:43 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Radiator Fan Resistor Question
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hey Mark,
> > >>
> > >> You're right - had to crimp up a jumper wire, but using a parallel
> ground
> > >> turned the fan. So bad earth - looks like it is the furthest away of
> the
> > >> second ground post behind the fuse panel, Maybe that's the headlight
> issue
> > >> too - I guess its time to take them all off clean them up and re
> apply. I
> > >> did try each crimp terminal with a meter to a separate ground earl
> ier, and
> > >> didn't see any problems, but I guess its there... Well - that's the
> next
> > >> couple of hours...
> > >>
> > >> Thanks Again,
> > >>
> > >> Paul.
> > >>
> > >> Could they make it any tighter to get in there!!!
> > >>
> > >> On Mon, Jul 14, 2008 at 5:03 PM, mdrillock wrote:
> > >>
> > >> What you just wrote suggests the bad ground for the fan as I mentioned
> at
> > >>> the end of my reply. Either that or you have multiple problems. The
> > >>> ground
> > >>> can be intermittent. I suggest you put it all back exactly the way it
> was
> > >>> and start over. Then figure which 2 wires of the radiator temp switch
>
> > >>> make
> > >>> the relay click. Then but a jumper wire into those 2 pins to hot wire
> it
> > >>> while you look for where the problem is. Start with a wire, holding
> one
> > >>> bare
> > >>> end to bare metal and the other end touch to the fan nut where the
> brown
> > >>> wire is attached. If that causes the fan to move suddenly then the
> brown
> > >>> ground wire is suspect.
> > >>>
> > >>> DO NOT leave that hot wire installed more than a couple minutes while
> you
> > >>> are right there testing things.
> > >>>
> > >>> Low speed does not use a relay. High speed does not use a resistor.
> > >>>
> > >>> The headlight circuit has nothing to do with the radiator fan
> circuit.
> > >>> There is not a relay for the headlights unless someone modified that
> part
> > >>> of
> > >>> the wiring.
> > >>>
> > >>> Mark
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> Paul Co nnelly wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> Thanks Mark,
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Okay cool, that suggests the relay then. I had looked at a bunch of
> > >>>> similar
> > >>>> issues in the archives and they all seem slightly different with
> > >>>> different
> > >>>> resolutions. I had already jumpered across the plug and I get the
> relay
> > >>>> "clicking" on contact across the outer two terminals - nothing with
> > >>>> either
> > >>>> side to the middle. I had tested the temperature switch (measured
> the
> > >>>> resistance - OC at cold, outer terminals short for low, all three
> > >>>> combinations short on high) and I initially tested the motor with
> 12V
> > >>>> across
> > >>>> it in the vehicle - nothing. So I removed the fan and tested it on
> the
> & gt; >>>> bench
> > >>>> - ran just fine. Re-installed it and tested it directly with 12V
> again -
> > >>>> this time it ran just fine. So I retested the switch, same result
> and
> > >>>> was
> > >>>> moving through to the resistor and relay - does that make sense?
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Fuse is fine, as is the earth as far as I can see (Colorado Van, so
> no
> > >>>> real
> > >>>> rust issues - all seems to be clean and dry).
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Also having another issue with lack of headlights except when
> switched
> > >>>> and
> > >>>> "held" on main/high beam, so relay is starting to look more of a
> likely
> > >>>> candidate. Anyone know which one it is? - The Bentley is a little
> > >>>> confusing
> > >>>> on that!!!
> > &g t;>>>
> > >>>> Once more thanks for the help,
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Paul.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> On Mon, Jul 14, 2008 at 3:00 PM, mdrillock wrote:
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>> High speed does not use the resistor so that can't be the problem
> for
> > >>>>> that
> > >>>>> speed. Only low and medium speed go through it. Don't overlook fuse
> #1,
> > >>>>> on the left end position of the main fuse panel. All 3 speeds use
> it.
> > >>>>> Should be 30 amp.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> With the radiator temp switch wiring plug pulled off the switch,
> jumper
> > >>>>> any
> > >>>>> 2 pins of the wiring plug with small needle nose pliers. 2
> combinations
> > >>& gt;>> should run the fan, 1 at low and another at high speed. Middle
> speed is
> > >>>>> only
> > >>>>> run by the A/C.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Another common failure point is the ground lug for the brown wire
> > >>>>> coming
> > >>>>> from the fan. It plugs into the grounding star behind the main
> relay
> > >>>>> panel.
> > >>>>> Many grounds plug in there and corrosion is a major issue on them.
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Mark
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Paul Connelly wrote:
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>> Hi Volks,
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> N ext question... does anyone know or can check out with a meter
> what
> > >>>>>> the
> > >>>>>> resistance should be on the resistor behind the drivers side
> headlight
> > >>>>>> for
> > >>>>>> the radiator fan. I've lost the fan. Checked out the temp switch
> and
> > >>>>>> its
> > >>>>>> fine - both stages switching to open circuit at the correct temps
> > >>>>>> (ish).
> > >>>>>> Checked the fan and it is buzzing just fine with 12v applied
> direct -
> > >>>>>> leaves
> > >>>>>> the resistor and the relay if the archives are correct.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Measuring at the back of the connector plug I get ~ 6 ohms across
> the
> > >>>>>> outer
> > >>>>>> terminals, ~ 4.3 o hms across the two terminals "closest" to each
> other
> > >>>>>> and
> > >>>>>> ~
> > >>>>>> 1.3 ohms across the "spaced apart" terminals.
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Just wanted to check it out to eliminate it or confirm it as the
> > >>>>>> culprit...
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> TIA
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>> Cheers, Paul.
> > >>>>>> 1986 Syncro Westy - Hummingbird
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> & gt; >
>
>