Wine or single malt corks work very well....

On Tue, Aug 5, 2008 at 8:27 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans <
scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:

> if you think any vaccuum leaks in the brake booster system, or the vaccum
> lines leading to that are causing engine runing issues.........
> simply apply the diagnostic strategy of 'Substitue and Bypass'.....
> which in this case would be to remove the vaccum line from where it joins
> on
> to that can in the middle of the intake runners. ..........that can with
> the
> throttle body on it.....
> and plug that hole carfully, like with a hose with big bolt in it - a
> smooth
> shanked bolt ......or even wooden plug - it's just a short term test.
> this way the entire vaccum system in the whole body of the van is out of
> the
> picture.
> then see what it does.
> and yes, you'll have greatly reduced braking performace, so be super
> careful
> there.
> anytime you can get various parts out of the picture ...........the better.
> That's one way of isolating where the problem is or isn't.
> Don't give up !
> scott
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Max Wellhouse" <dimwittedmoose@CFU.NET>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 6:36 PM
> Subject: Just Gotta Be A Vacuum Leak!!
>
>
>  Troops:  In my saga of poor performing () GL 2.1 motor syndrome, I
>> went through the Haynes British manual I got from Bus Depot and went
>> through their troubleshooting guide.  With all my performance issues,
>> the one thing that keeps showing up in their analysis is Vacuum
>> Leak.  Sure, low compression and fuel injection issue come in 2nd and
>> 3rd, but I don't have hot and cold start issues which both state that
>> low compression could be the cause of that.
>>
>> I do also have a lot of travel in my brake pedal despite repeated
>> adjustments to the rear shoes and the front disc pads have plenty of
>> meat left on them.  Under their listing of "excessive brake pedal
>> travel", they list sevo vacuum leak, and shot brake servo.  I don't
>> know if this makes the scales tip one way or the other, but if I were
>> to pump the brake pedal repeatedly9 or 10 times(when the engine does
>> try to idle every once in a while), the engine idle increases
>> substantially.  Is this further evidence of something wrong?  Crack
>> in one of the plastic pipe joints going back from the servo to the
>> engine?  Gasket at a joint bad?  The one way valve failing? The o
>> ring at the master cylinder?  How would I check the servo visually to
>> see if it's toast?  I do have the servo here from the 91 shell I just
>> parted out, but how would I tell if it was any better than the one I have?
>>
>> If I were to try and isolate this problem, could I simply plug the
>> booster outlet and drive the van for a short while without the  servo
>> sucking vacuum?  Probably have a harder time stopping the van.  This
>> engine pretty much doesn't want to idle period.  I've gone back and
>> checked the valve clearances again and I'm happy with that part.  I
>> am tapping vacuum from the FPR port to run both my vacuum gauge on
>> the dash and the MAP sensor for the Haltech ECU as well as the FPR,
>> but I've been doing that for years with no problems.  Again, the
>> ether spray showed no engine rise or fall in rpm when spraying all
>> the likely leak spots, so I'm pretty much in another fork in the road.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> DM&FS
>>
>

--
Jake
1984 Vanagon GL
1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"
Crescent Beach, BC
www.crescentbeachguitar.com
http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27