Amaizing how little recognition that simple device I made, to take out and
istall the engine to make it a joy, received.  And for me to read about
double jacks and all kind of obvious struggles with platforms and what not,
is really a puzzle why most don't realized the simplicity without lifting
the car both sides.
Well, we are not all the same, I guess.  I went through my struggles myself
too.
Zoltan

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Felder" <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 2:07 PM
Subject: Re: 2.1 running again, thanks, list!

> Scott,
>
> I learned that the intake system comes right out and makes the
> alternator and AC all that much easier to get to. But getting the
> plenum onto its stupid mounting points is ridiculous, especially when
> you consider that the rear one is actually a flywheel-end main bearing
> stud nut, and badly needs torquing. Getting a socket past the flywheel
> pickup is difficult even with the engine out of the car! Dumb!
>
> One thing I've done--don't remember how the car was manufactured--is
> to install the alternator with the bolt coming out toward the back of
> the car. Once the parts are aligned with a tapered drift, The bolt can
> be tapped in with a long stick through the license plate hatch. It can
> be pried out to remove it because you can get a tool up under the
> head.
>
> Thanks for the trick with the two jacks. I used 4x4 sections to get
> the back as high as I did on this removal. A while back, before I got
> the jack I have now, I cut up a stack of plywood big enough for the
> jack to operate on. This platform gave it enough lift to raise a
> vanagon, but it was a pain to do.
>
> Jim
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 17, 2008 at 3:39 PM, Scott Daniel  - Turbovans
> <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>> the trick is to have two floor jacks.
>> then................when you do lower the engine and it's too tall to get
>> out from under the rear bumper .........
>> you use the other jack, with a large block of wood on it if necessary to
>> enable it to go higher..........to temporally raise the van high enough
>> to
>> get the engine out from underneath.
>>
>> I read the trick of, for engine removal, removing the intake system
>> first,
>> then the alternator, with the engine in the car.   Two advantages to
>> doing
>> that.....makes getting at the alternator lower pivot bolt easier, and the
>> engine less tall for getting out from underneath the van.
>>
>> and it's a lot nicer to install all that stuff onto the engine out of the
>> van .....so kinda a toss up .
>> But having two floor jacks.............makes a huge difference.
>> Scott
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Felder" <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM>
>> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
>> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 8:04 AM
>> Subject: Re: 2.1 running again, thanks, list!
>>
>>
>>> Let me correct something I said in the original post... it is the
>>> easiest to R&R that I can remember. But then comes hooking everything
>>> up! That takes a long time. The way the engine goes in, with
>>> everything already mounted to it, is pretty cool.
>>>
>>> The deal is, how high do you want to lift the car? Assuming you're
>>> going to use a furniture dolly, like I did, then if you already have
>>> the oil tower and thermostat housing mounted they are the same height,
>>> that will require a 23 inch clearance in the back.
>>>
>>> If you left those off till the engine was in the car, you could get by
>>> with about a 19 inch clearance.
>>>
>>> I waited until the engine was back in the car to install the AC
>>> compressor, intake setup, and alternator. Next time I'd like to do
>>> that in the engine stand and spend only about two hours hooking
>>> everything up once the engine was in rather than the six hours I spent
>>> this time. It will require about 26 inches of clearance, beyond the
>>> capability of my current jack.
>>>
>>> Really, it is an easy engine to get in and out except for the "stuff."
>>>
>>> Jim
>>
>>
>
>
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