

| Subject: | Re: 2.1 running again, thanks, list! |
| From: | Scott Daniel - Turbovans |
| Date: | Sun, 17 Aug 2008 15:13:32 -0700 |
Zoltan, i know you like the setup you made, and it worked very well for you. using the floor jack method is not difficult, or unstable, or scary or anything. I also have a welded up adapter that fits into a floor jack, and bolts to the bottom of the engine, but i don't even bother to use it all the time either. scott turbovans ----- Original Message ----- From: "The Westy man" <zolo@FOXINTERNET.NET> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 2:57 PM Subject: Re: 2.1 running again, thanks, list! > Amaizing how little recognition that simple device I made, to take out and > istall the engine to make it a joy, received. And for me to read about > double jacks and all kind of obvious struggles with platforms and what > not, > is really a puzzle why most don't realized the simplicity without lifting > the car both sides. > Well, we are not all the same, I guess. I went through my struggles > myself > too. > Zoltan > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jim Felder" <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM> > To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> > Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 2:07 PM > Subject: Re: 2.1 running again, thanks, list! > > >> Scott, >> >> I learned that the intake system comes right out and makes the >> alternator and AC all that much easier to get to. But getting the >> plenum onto its stupid mounting points is ridiculous, especially when >> you consider that the rear one is actually a flywheel-end main bearing >> stud nut, and badly needs torquing. Getting a socket past the flywheel >> pickup is difficult even with the engine out of the car! Dumb! >> >> One thing I've done--don't remember how the car was manufactured--is >> to install the alternator with the bolt coming out toward the back of >> the car. Once the parts are aligned with a tapered drift, The bolt can >> be tapped in with a long stick through the license plate hatch. It can >> be pried out to remove it because you can get a tool up under the >> head. >> >> Thanks for the trick with the two jacks. I used 4x4 sections to get >> the back as high as I did on this removal. A while back, before I got >> the jack I have now, I cut up a stack of plywood big enough for the >> jack to operate on. This platform gave it enough lift to raise a >> vanagon, but it was a pain to do. >> >> Jim >> >> >> On Sun, Aug 17, 2008 at 3:39 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans >> <scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote: >>> the trick is to have two floor jacks. >>> then................when you do lower the engine and it's too tall to >>> get >>> out from under the rear bumper ......... >>> you use the other jack, with a large block of wood on it if necessary to >>> enable it to go higher..........to temporally raise the van high enough >>> to >>> get the engine out from underneath. >>> >>> I read the trick of, for engine removal, removing the intake system >>> first, >>> then the alternator, with the engine in the car. Two advantages to >>> doing >>> that.....makes getting at the alternator lower pivot bolt easier, and >>> the >>> engine less tall for getting out from underneath the van. >>> >>> and it's a lot nicer to install all that stuff onto the engine out of >>> the >>> van .....so kinda a toss up . >>> But having two floor jacks.............makes a huge difference. >>> Scott >>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Felder" <jim.felder@GMAIL.COM> >>> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> >>> Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 8:04 AM >>> Subject: Re: 2.1 running again, thanks, list! >>> >>> >>>> Let me correct something I said in the original post... it is the >>>> easiest to R&R that I can remember. But then comes hooking everything >>>> up! That takes a long time. The way the engine goes in, with >>>> everything already mounted to it, is pretty cool. >>>> >>>> The deal is, how high do you want to lift the car? Assuming you're >>>> going to use a furniture dolly, like I did, then if you already have >>>> the oil tower and thermostat housing mounted they are the same height, >>>> that will require a 23 inch clearance in the back. >>>> >>>> If you left those off till the engine was in the car, you could get by >>>> with about a 19 inch clearance. >>>> >>>> I waited until the engine was back in the car to install the AC >>>> compressor, intake setup, and alternator. Next time I'd like to do >>>> that in the engine stand and spend only about two hours hooking >>>> everything up once the engine was in rather than the six hours I spent >>>> this time. It will require about 26 inches of clearance, beyond the >>>> capability of my current jack. >>>> >>>> Really, it is an easy engine to get in and out except for the "stuff." >>>> >>>> Jim >>> >>> >> >> >> -- >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> Checked by AVG. >> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.6.3/1612 - Release Date: 8/14/2008 >> 6:03 PM >> >>
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