Trip report -- just took a 2000 mile trip after doing Chris' hot foot  
pipe insulation mod, up the 395 this last week.   It was a good test  
-- 105 degrees in Reno.

Results -- nada.   Floor area around the auto trany shifter was 140  
degrees while driving.   It's possible that's a few degrees lower than  
before, but it's still blazing hot and was uncomfortable.

Reading bently on the issue is funny.   The last paragraph of their  
hot foot mod is basically "if this doesn't work, tell the customer to  
open the floor vents"  :-)

I think the main problem with the hot foot is simple -- hot air from  
the radiator is bathing the sheet metal.   The only way to stop it is  
going to be to fully insulate and/or redirect the air flow?

-mike

On Aug 11, 2008, at 6:49 PM, Chris S wrote:

> http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b7/misterpolak/WBX_transplant/HotFootFix.jpg
>
> I spent a total of $11 on my pipe insulation.  I haven't driven the  
> Westy to
> see what the difference is, but I imagine the floor will be a bit  
> cooler
> without the pipes contacting it directly.  The hot air blasting from  
> the
> radiator is another matter.
>
> By the way, the insulation will address "Hot Foot" for passengers  
> more so
> than drivers.  It should also make a difference in the floor  
> temperature
> between the seats and by the shifter.  So over all less heat is  
> better in
> the Southeast.
>
>
> Chris.
>
> 2008/8/10 Michael Diehr <md03@xochi.com>
>
>> Re: hot-foot mods to avoid heat seepage through the body on hot days
>>
>> I've seen described:
>> * extra valve to fully shut off the front heater water
>> * pipe insulation on the coolant pipes under the van
>> * insulating material on the sheet metal downwind from the radiator
>> (either inside or outside)
>>  or above the automatic transmission
>>
>> Any advice on which is the best benefit/cost ratio?
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Chris S.
> "Jeszcze Polska Nie Zgin�a"