I know the double nut trick, I didn't think about the factory locktite.

Thanks,

Jim

On Sat, Aug 23, 2008 at 9:24 AM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Double nut trick! Get 2 10mm nuts place them on the stud and tighten the 2
> against each other, hard. Then use an open end wrench to turn the inner
> nut. You will still need some heat at the bottom as these things are
> factory lock tited in place. Install the new ones the same way only
> turning the outer nut down. As for broken studs, I have welded nuts on
> with great success. I have also done that remove exhaust studs. That are
> not plated work best for this.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim Felder [mailto:jim.felder@gmail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 10:15 AM
> To: Dennis Haynes
> Cc: vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com
> Subject: Re: Engine Replacement or Gasket Fix?
>
> Dennis,
>
> I considered replacing the studs on my recent rebuild. I ended up
> using another block with no evidence of overheating. The main reason I
> didn't replace the studs (besides the cost) was the fact that they are
> so hard I couldn't grab them to remove them. Is there some trick, like
> welding on a nut, that I overlooked? How do you normally get them out?
>
> Jim
>
> On Sat, Aug 23, 2008 at 8:30 AM, Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@hotmail.com>
> wrote:
>> Both of those internal compression leaks were due to the studs failing
> to
>> maintain tension. If the new heads were bad, they would have leaked
>> immediately. All of the internal leaks where the cylinder meets the
> heads
>> start out as head stud tension failure. Sometimes this can be corrected
> by
>> re-tourqing the heads but if the studs are stretching the problem will
>> return. Once the internal leak begins it will get worse as the gasket
>> begins to burn away from the gasses being forced past it. Just think,
> new
>> studs and nuts with that first replacement could have saved $5k.
>>
>> Dennis
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
> Of
>> Walter Houle
>> Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 7:33 PM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Re: Engine Replacement or Gasket Fix?
>>
>> Robert -
>>
>> Having been thru a couple of head swaps in the past, I went through my
>> records to see what could be learned.
>>
>> The original heads lasted approx. 8 years and 100,000 miles. They
> corroded
>> at the water gasket and leaked coolant. I then purchased a set of new
>> heads and installed them myself. Total cost for the parts was $1,000.
> They
>> lasted 3 years and 32,000 miles. Then, they failed due to a compression
>> leak that pressurized the cooling system and caused overheating. A local
>> mechanic told me they failed because they were of poor quality & fit and
>> recommended a different brand. If my memory serves me right the 1st set
> of
>> replacement heads were made in Spain, and the 2nd set he recommended
> were
>> from Germany. So, I hired him to install the German heads. Total cost
> was
>> $1,900. These heads worked fine for another 2 yrs 9 months and 22,000
>> miles before they too failed with another compression leak. At this
> point,
>> I decided to have a factory rebuilt engine installed. This cost $3,300,
>> but it has gone 10 years and 50,000 miles and it is still going strong.
>> Also, FWIW, the factory motor was found to have a leaky head when it was
>> first fired up, a tiny pin hole sized leak near the exhaust flange. VW
>> warrantied it, and it was replaced by a local dealership free of charge
>> after about a two month wait.
>>
>> So, my replacement heads weren't exactly cheap, but they did buy me a
> few
>> years each time. The engine swap cost more, but it did come with a
>> warranty and it has proven to be very reliable. If I had known about
> this
>> list 10 to 12 years ago I'm sure I would have done things differently.
>> Whatever you decide, go with experience, either in the advice from the
>> list or with an experienced mechanic, and only use known quality parts.
>>
>> Walter
>> 85 Vanagon
>>
>
>