Go out and find yourself a cheap propane fish cooker and put a
galvanized steel washtub on top of it. Secure it so it won't fall
over, fill it with water and load it with granular laundry detergent.
Does a pro job on engine blocks on down to small parts.

Jim

On Mon, Sep 8, 2008 at 4:55 PM, Jeff <vw.doka@gmail.com> wrote:
> Mike,
>
> Mineral Spirits, gas, etc., just can't do the job of a true parts cleaning
> solvent.  I've been doing this for 30+ years and true solvent with a good
> brush is the best I've seen.
>
> Now... this doesn't include hot tanks, chem dips, and other high-end
> cleaning machines like the machine shops have.  Most of the really good
> cleaning methods have been outlawed for years.  I used to take my engine
> cases and heads to my local machine shop for a nice chemical bath for
> cleaning.  Now that was clean!  But you had to be careful what you put in
> there because it would disappear if left in too long.
>
> For small parts, the best method I have for cleaning is a 7 gallon bucket of
> cleaning solution with a basket that is attached to an  agitator (kind of
> like BenT, but air powered).  30 minutes of squishing and everything comes
> out nice and shiny.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jeff
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike [mailto:mbucchino@charter.net]
> Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 1:36 PM
> To: Jeff; vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: Re: Parts Cleaner Recommendations
>
>  I buy Mineral Spirits by the gallon at paint stores.  It's cheap and it
> works as well as the safety solvent, and is safer than gasoline.
>  I haven't tried the earth-safe' orange or purple stuff yet.
> YMMV,
> Mike B.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff" <vw.doka@GMAIL.COM>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 7:13 PM
> Subject: Re: Parts Cleaner Recommendations
>
>
>> Tim,
>>
>> When it comes to parts cleaners, you'll pretty much get what you paid for.
>> In my opinion, traditional solvent is still the best when it comes
>> cleaning
>> parts.  Unfortunately, traditional solvent has been prohibited here in
>> Sacramento due to air quality issues.  As a replacement, we are using
>> synthetic solvent which works well enough but is very expensive at
>> $27/gallon.
>>
>> If you do decide to go with a water-based solution, try to find one that
>> heats the solution.  The difference in cleaning quality is like night and
>> day.
>>
>> Good Luck,
>>
>> Jeff
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
>> Tim Marciniak
>> Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 3:35 PM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Parts Cleaner Recommendations
>>
>> Anyone have a suggestion on parts cleaners and which solvent to use?
>> So far I have looked at two--the 3.5 gallon table top and 20 gallon
>> sink type both sold at Northern Hydraulics (NH).  There are a few
>> other companies selling very similar products.  These are not heavy
>> duty type shop units.  Price is in the $50 to $100 range.  Lots of
>> negative comments from owners of these things that pumps burnout,
>> switches fail, and hoses leak after just a short time of ownership.
>> I have read in other forums that the Monster solvent that NH sell is
>> ineffective and itself requires aeration so it does not spoil.  It
>> does not seem like these cabinets are made for the traditional type
>> of solvent like kerosene or mineral spirits either.  My garage is
>> attached to my house so I am leaning toward using a waterbased
>> cleaner anyways.
>>
>> What are you all doing for cleaning parts anyways?  I use naptha,
>> mineral spirits, or kerosene and a bucket and its always a mess.
>>
>> Tim
>