I tried posting this last night, but it doesn't look like it came
through.  Anyway, here is a step by step procedure for chaning the drive
flange seals.  It was written by Tom Young in 1999.  I found these
instructions very useful when I did this job.  Tom, if you are still on
the list, thanks!

BTW...I just submitted this to the BTDT site (www.vanagonauts.com).

C-ya,
Jake

Date:         Fri, 2 Jul 1999 22:11:18 -0700
> Reply-To:     Tom Young <young@SHERLOCK.SIMS.BERKELEY.EDU>
> Sender:       Vanagon Mailing List <vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com>
> From:         Tom Young <young@SHERLOCK.SIMS.BERKELEY.EDU>
> Subject:      Procedure: Replacing Trans Final Drive Seals
> Comments: To: type2@type2.com
> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
> Since I just did this procedure today and it's fresh in my
> mind, I thought I'd write it up just to give someone a shot
> of finding it in the archives.
>
> The "special" tools I used on this job, and that I'd advise
> you have before attempting it are:
>
>         External circlip pliers
>         3" puller
>         seal remover (that wicked-looking double-hooked tool)
>         a LARGE washer slightly bigger that the oil seal
>         an even LARGER washer, slightly smaller than the
>              flange of the drive flange
>         a long 10mm x 1.5 bolt, and nut.
>
> The drive flange oil seals live in the transmission, inboard
> of the drive flanges themselves.  If you remove an inner CV
> joint and find its grease has obviously been contaminated
> with transmission oil, you're a candidate for this
> procedure.
>
> The Clymer manual doesn't mention the R & R of the drive
> flange oil seals.  The Haynes manual does cover this, but
> only as part of a complete disassembly / assembly of the
> transmission.  Bentley covers the removal and installation
> of the seals in its usual laconic fashion.
>
> I had the engine out and the drive shafts removed when I did
> this, and I shudder to think of doing the job with the
> engine in place and the drive shafts wired up out of the
> way.  Of course I was lying under the car in the driveway
> and if you happen to have a hydraulic lift and can stand
> under the car, then be my guest.
>
> When you look at the drive flange you should see a black /
> blue / whatever plastic or rubber covered metal cap in the
> center of the flange.  You first need to remove this cap,
> which you can only do by destroying it, so put these caps on
> your shopping list.  Gouge at it with a screwdriver or awl
> until it pops out of the flange.
>
> Next, you have to remove a circlip that rides in a groove of
> the side gear (that's that little "axle" end you're looking
> at.)  If you've always managed to remove these things with a
> pair of screwdrivers or something of that ilk, more power to
> you, but I found I had a tough enough time using my circlip
> pliers.  The circlip's down in that grove so it's not
> exactly easy to get at and it's a STRONG circlip.  I'd
> advise buying those circlip pliers.
>
> After the circlip is out remove the spring washer which is
> sitting under the circlip.
>
> You're now ready to remove the drive flange itself.
>
> After all these years of not owning a puller and making do
> with pry bars and other makeshift items, I finally broke
> down and bought one of those $4.99 three inch pullers to
> remove the shaft.  The plastic lock ring is right under the
> drive shaft, so I couldn't find a good place to pry where I
> wasn't in danger of damaging the lock ring.
>
> Screw a short 10mm x 1.5 bolt into the end of the side gear,
> put the point of the puller on the head of the bolt, put the
> two arms of the puller on the drive shaft flange, and turn
> the bolt of the puller; the drive shaft should come right
> off.
>
> Next, remove the two phillips head screws that hold the
> plastic lock ring in place, and remove the lock ring.
>
> The seal is now exposed, ready to be removed in the usual
> manner of these things, that is, one way or the other you
> destroy it to remove it.  I know screwdrivers and other
> traditional levers are often used to remove oil seals off
> all sorts, and I suspect you can use these tools here, too.
> Lying on my back under the transmission I was glad I had my
> seal puller, and it was STILL a b*tch to get the seal out;
> it's in there TIGHT!  The adjusting ring that you're prying
> on to get the seal out seems to be made of fairly soft
> material, and I noticed that the head of the seal puller
> made some small "dents" in the ring.  Try and find little
> pieces of wood or something to put under the adjusting ring.
>
> With the seal out, clean everything up and oil the new seal.
> The new seal can be tapped in place like most seals are, but
> since the end of the side gear will take a 10mm x 1.5 bolt I
> used a bolt, a nut, a LARGE washer and a pipe coupling to
> "press" the seal into place.  Slick!!
>
> Reassembly is, as they say, the reverse of assembly.
>
> The drive flange needs to be pressed back on the side gear;
> I used the real large washer, a pipe coupling, the 10mm nut
> and the 10mm x 1.5 bolt screwed into the end of the side
> gear to get the flange back into place.
>
> The spring washer prevents the circlip from fully seating
> into the grove in the end of the side gear, so use a
> screwdriver and hammer, a piece of pipe of the appropriate
> size, or some other tool to make sure the circlip is fully
> seated in the grove.  I have a pair of needle nose vice grip
> pliers that I used to squeeze the circlip back into place.
>
> Finally, put your new cap back into place in the end of the
> drive flange.  If there's anything special about getting
> these plugs seated I wouldn't know, since my FLAPS gave me
> the wrong caps!!  I'll go get the right ones tomorrow.
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> Tom Young               young@sherlock.SIMS.Berkeley.EDU
> Lafayette, CA  94549    '81 Vanagon
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>