Jake,

Sorry about that, I should have mentioned that sort of thing. I'm just
getting used to describing car issues on this list! I should be decent
at it, because I write software for a living and am always telling QA
to write better bug reports.

Other modifications (that I know of, all were installed by the previous owner):

* Headlight relay kit (mentioned in original email)

* Aftermarket CD stereo (Alpine, at least 5 years old I think). This
stereo can be turned on if the ignition is in the off position.

* Anode/electric-based rust stopper. I forget the brand, and it seems
like black magic to me (another round of google searching in my
future...). But ... now that I'm listing stuff out I do remember
re-connecting a loose cable to this device the first day I began
diagnosing the headlight problem. I'll try to figure out how much
current this device draws.

* Interior heater. This device is definitely in the off position, but
I could disconnect it just to be sure.

For a new (as of two months ago) 12V battery, what sort of current
draw would drain it to 8V in 7 days?

Thanks again,
Luke

On Sun, Oct 19, 2008 at 11:22 PM, Jake de Villiers
<crescentbeachguitar@gmail.com> wrote:
> And just now you're mentioning the engine swap?!  :-)
>
> Any other major modifications you'd like to tell us about?  Aftermarket
> stereo, power antenna, alarm etc.....
>
> On Sun, Oct 19, 2008 at 8:24 PM, Luke Bakken <luke.bakken@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> >> I pulled the fuses one at a time to see what circuit the problem may
>> >> be on, but no luck. Being a Vanagon newbie, I'm not really familiar
>> >
>> > How much drain are you seeing?
>>
>> It's weird - if I have my multimeter set to the 10A range, it appears
>> to be hovering around 100mA, but if I move the multimeter to the 500mA
>> range, it's pegged. Grr - either I'm reading the tester wrong
>> (entirely possible) or the tester has an issue. If I put a 12V test
>> light in series between the negative cable and negative post it does
>> light up, although dimly. In addition, I hear a whirring motor sound
>> from up by the dash for about 2 seconds when I restore power (and I
>> see the resulting current draw), but it shuts itself off. What is
>> that?
>>
>> What amperage or multi tester do list members here recommend?
>>
>> From my reading online last night, the next step is to get a reliable
>> mA reading and start pulling fuses and relays until the current draw
>> goes down. Failing that, it appears that things like the power door
>> locks, stereo, LED clock, alternate battery system (I don't have a 2nd
>> battery, but it appears that in addition to the stock positive cable
>> on my battery there are the two red/white wires as well) or alternator
>> could be causing this ... or something else, like a barely-shorted
>> wire somewhere.
>>
>> One other thing that I have noticed with this van is that the
>> open-door chime doesn't *always* come on when the driver's side door
>> is opened. And, sometimes when it is on and I hoist myself up using
>> the steering wheel, it stops chiming.
>>
>> To make this all even more interesting, the van has the Smallcar
>> Subaru conversion as well and I'm really hoping this isn't related to
>> that. Good times!
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Luke
>
>
>
> --
> Jake
> 1984 Vanagon GL
> 1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"
> Crescent Beach, BC
> www.crescentbeachguitar.com
> http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27
>