>> * Anode/electric-based rust stopper. I forget the brand, and it seems
>> like black magic to me (another round of google searching in my
>> future...). But ... now that I'm listing stuff out I do remember
>> re-connecting a loose cable to this device the first day I began
>> diagnosing the headlight problem. I'll try to figure out how much
>> current this device draws.
>
> Occam sez...you hooked this thing up, and a week later your battery was
> drawing flies.  Coincidence?  Perhaps.  But if you want to shave with his
> blade, unhook the bloody thing and see what happens.

Yeah, I definitely feel like I've been hit with the clue-stick :-)

> As to the black magic bit -- active electrolytic-corrosion protection
> systems work very well *on items immersed in salt water or other conducting
> media.*  Ships, buried pipelines and such.  They impress a current of IIRC
> about 100 ma / m^2 through the electrolyte into the protected surface.  So
> if you're planning on a submarine conversion you might look into a *real*
> system of this type.  But otherwise, be glad the other guy paid for the
> thing and tear it down for parts, 'cause for automotive use it's pure snake
> oil.

Good to know, I was wondering about that.

No plans for a submarine conversion (yet).

Thanks!
Luke