I have been working around cars and solvents now for over 40 years.
Back in the 70s at the first automotive VW repair shop I worked in we had
several solvent tanks for
degreasing air cooled vw engine parts, including a large tank of carb
cleaner. That tank stunk up our
whole shop and parts department that I am wondering how I am still above
ground. I remember taking
engine cases out with bare hands. Same with the solvent tanks and parts
washers.

For several years now I have switched to using the nitril gloves as a
barrier between the grease on car parts
and ME!

You can purchase a 100 pack of the nitril gloves at Harbor Freight for $7.99
thats about 8 cents  a pair.
They do tear easily but I too recycle the ones that can still blow up with
out a air leak. I used to get moisture build
up but the corn starch baby powder works well if that is a problem.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37052
I too have used the barrier cream and they are better than nothing, and the
fast orange with pumice will cut up your hands
if you are washing several times a day.

A very good mechanic friend of mine just told me about a new brand of glove
he uses that is thicker and holds up better
than the harbor freight glove, he now uses them.

Microflex  diamond

http://www.labsafety.com/store/Safety_Supplies/Gloves/Disposable_Latex_Glove
s/41890/?CID=8PG620TNMICROFLEXPROD121945&s_kwcid=microflex%20gloves|21870347
66

> 1.  Blue Nitrile Exam Gloves.  I'm not allergic to latex or vinyl,
> but those gloves don't hold up even as well as the Nitrile.  Yes, I
> use them for CV Joint repacking and a couple of other really nasty
> jobs, but for everyday mechanical repairs, they don't hold up and
> repeated use gets expensive.  I know some auto stores sell Heavy Duty
> ones, but still after 30 minutes or so, your hands get really clammy
> and wet and that makes putting on the next  pair difficult.  I DO use
> these gloves extensively when working with Epoxy and other nasty
> resins though and they do fine for that, but that work doesn't
> require all the abrasion of the auto work..
>
> 2. Kerrodex barrier cream-  Your spozed to rub this stuff into your
> fingernails and exposed skin before you begin and after the mech
> work, rinse with water and all of the dirt goes bye bye.  Spozed to
> work for fiberglass resins too and it doesn't  It smells like soap in
> a tube and hasn't performed anywhere near the way I'd like it to,
> especially for the cost of it.
>
> 3. Fast Orange/Go-Jo/Pumice cleaners/Lava/ you name it- EVENTUALLY,
> they get the stuff off, but the dirtier you get, the time to clean up
> gets exponentially longer and once you rinse with water, the
> effectiveness of the repeated applications diminishes a great
> deal.  EEven the "natural" versions of this stuff dry out the skin badly.
>
> TIA
>
> DM&FS