Dennis,
Thank you for your assistance.  However, I have a later model with electronic spark..
so I think I need the DC current for that.  And, as a newbie to the fridge, I am not that
clear on how everything works so bypassing the straight and forward or doing something
slightly differently gives me angst as you can tell by Frank's frustration with me.  I am not that
handy so I ask a lot of questions even if I read something several times.

For example, I am sure someone on this list can get the fridge running without the spark and by
bypassing the safety valve...after all I had a RV FLAPS do that already.  That is how I know
what parts to replace. Not me.  I will probably finally "get it" after I take it apart several more times.

I do appreciate the list and everyone's patience.

--peace--
    stu

On Thu, 13 Nov 2008 00:00:03 -0500, Automatic digest processor wrote:

>Date:    Wed, 12 Nov 2008 23:40:47 -0500
>From:    Dennis Haynes <d23haynes57@HOTMAIL.COM>
>Subject: Re: fridge....saga continues

>The only reverse thread is the POL fitting between the regulator and the
>tank valve. Everything else is conventional brass, copper tube flare
>fittings.

>The fridge can operate on propane with no 12 volts connection at all. The
>only loss will be the rear fan and flame on indicator light.

>Dennis

------------------------------------------------------------
+    To unsubscribe from the Vanagon List send an e-mail to
+    listserv@gerry.vanagon.com with SIGNOFF VANAGON
+    in the body of the message.
------------------------------------------------------------