I think I will try that when I get a chance. But right now I have a
more pressing problem... everything went beautifully on my swap as I
wrote except for the ONE THING I didn't test. that is, that the locks
work.

I cannot unlock or lock my driver's door. It isn't the lock or the
tumblers, that works fine. It's the part that slides up and down
inside the door and is connected to the lock button. Something has
happened to it, maybe as a result of the reinstall, but it won't go up
or down. Fortunately stuck in the up position so I can get in and out,
but I can't lock it.

Any ideas?

Jim

On Tue, Jan 20, 2009 at 2:58 PM, BenT Syncro <syncro@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Tue, Jan 20, 2009 at 6:07 AM, Jim Felder <jim.felder@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Guess I wasn't too clear, or else I was and I don't get what you're
>> saying...
>
>
> Jim,
>
> I re-read what you wrote. It was me who misunderstood. As Mark and Dylan
> have pointed out,
> you can easily re-key any of those cylinders via any locksmith. I think it
> was listmember Steve at
> http://www.steveslockshop.com/
>
> I had done this project successfully on my own locks by trial and error. I
> move a wafer and then insert
> the key that I want to use. If the wafer sits flush with the cylinder
> barrel, then that wafer will work in that
> position. You just keep doing this until all the wafers are re-inserted.
> According to my locksmith, there
> are only 6 variations of the wafers. Nevertheless, you will find that you
> have 2-3 or even more of the same
> wafer in one lock cylinder. That's where the locksmiths have the advantage.
> They have spare wafers to
> replace whatever it takes for the key to match. Contrary to what Dylan
> mentioned, I have found that the
> keys wear out rather than the wafer. Perhaps it is a regional thing due to
> weather and debris getting into
> the locks.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
> BenT
>
> ps: have seen people make the wrong wafers work by filing the ends that
> stick out. it's not my preferred method.