> uh..........what's 'so wrong' with 220 F oil temps ?

I probably should have added that my oil temp gauge is more of a
relative temperature gauge, rather than an ACTUAL temperature gauge.
The sensor is in the drain plug, and the wire to the gauge is long,
undersized, and probably well corroded where the exhaust system has
burned off the insulation. When I say 220F, that's just the line the
gauge is pointing at. The REAL temp at the bottom of the sump is
probably 10 degrees higher, and the actual temp at the oil gallery is
certainly higher still.

> Considering that oil temp is going to get up to coolant temp after a while
> anyway....
> which is 185 F we'll say ..........
> 225 is only 35 degrees higher than that......ie. 'not that much.'

True, but it's definitely higher than that. I show signs of coolant
boiling, which with a 50% mix blue Pentosin is at least 230F

> also.......I think there is some unclarity about what exactly is 'too hot'
> in oil temps.
> I regard 250 F as 'getting up there' ........
> Perhaps in an air-cooled engine .....and even that isn't 'just horrible,' I
> don't think.

Oh certainly. I've run higher than that through the 105F desert on a
trip to Vegas. I would prefer not to though.

> I think you're kinda chasing a problem that isn't there, especailly in
> winter.

Perhaps. Of course "winter" in Los Angeles included 80-90 degree
periods lasting a week or so, and I spend a lot of time in stop and go
traffic. My primary concern is the coolant boiling issue. Rubber head
gaskets that are separated from hot cylinders by nothing but a bubble
of steam can get very unhappy.

> I'd want to see the stock oil cooler ( if 2.1 engine ) stay on the engine
> anyway.....
> since it also stabilzes oil temps by helping the  oil to get warmed up from
> the coolant.

Stock heat exchanger is still there. The sandwich plate attaches to
the bottom of it.

> There is a braod misconception in the non=rofessional automotive world that
> 'cooler is always better.'
> ...
> I'd say a little over 200 degrees F is about right.

Yep, that's dead smack in the middle of the 180-220 ideal range out of
the SAE handbook. 180 is considered the minimum necessary to drive
fuel and water out of the oil, and 220 is about where pure water
coolant and cheap single grade oil start to get flaky. Pentosin blue
and Mobil 1 15W50 would let me go higher... but why would I want to?

> perhaps your oil thermostat isn't working as it should.

That's what I think. The temps were running consistently at the
180-190F (indicated) range at first before I installed the air
baffles.

> hey ! .......just thought of this .........since you are evidently very
> concerned about proper engine lubrication......
> send an oil sample out to an oil lab for analysis.  That'll give you an idea
> about how much metal from the engine is showing up in the oil due to lack of
> proper lubrication or oil breakdown.

Mostly concerned with the boiling coolant. I'm sure lubrication is fine.

> You might like Amzoil.  They claim
> they are the only *true* synthetic oil.

Amsoil? Meh. I buy whatever I can find. Usually Mobil 1. I know you
think I'm chasing a phantom problem here, but hey, if an oil cooler
saves me a gasket job, why not?

--
John Bange
'90 Vanagon - "Lastwagen"
'90 Vanagon GL - "Wiesel"