What do you guys use for inslulation back here instead of the stock stuff?

-Craig
'85GL turned Westy

On Mon, Mar 2, 2009 at 4:43 PM, Bill Glenn <idahobill@gmail.com> wrote:

> Florian,
> 1. Definately clean out the combustion chamber, but be aware that the
> gasket is no longer available from Dometic, so exercise care in separating
> the two halves of the combustion chamber.  Since I found the gasket lacking
> in resiliency, and its ability to seal quesionable, I used a very thin film
> of gasket sealer on re-assembly.
> 2. Confirm that the drain tube is free of obstruction.
> 3. Check the thermo switch that is mounted on the upper cooling fins, for
> reasonably good contact with the fin; sometimes the retaining ring becomes
> loose.  Some thermo-conducting paste can be added between the fin and the
> switch, but that's optional.
> 4. With the fridge powered temporarily with 12 volts, the operation of the
> thermo switch can be checked by applying heat with a heat gun or hair
> dryer; obviously this allows checking the operation of the fan also. I'm of
> the opinion that if the original fan is working as it should, that's all
> that's needed.  Design Note: the thermo switch is supplied with 12 volts
> whether the fridge is turned on or not, so the switch, and thus the fan,
> will be activated by high enough ambient temperatures.
> 5. Blow out the intake and exhaust tubes.
> 6. Though I can't say for certain, I seem to remember that when installing
> the check valve update kit, the directions to enlarge the inlet and outlet
> (Bentley 76.26) contained an error with respect to the size of drill bit to
> use, too large a bit for the job I think.
>
> Unrelated to the fridge proper:
> A. If you use the city water supply, check the plastic elbow for cracks.
>