I live where vehicles don't rust. The notion of that lever easily
popping off is foreign to me too. I'm sure some do but seldom the ones I
need to remove. I have used prybars/hammers, pullers after welding on
tabs, propane torches, sawsalls, etc.

Mark

Ken Wilford wrote:
> I agree with Dylan, that shaft coming off here in the rust belt is very
> iffy.  I have had ones not want to come off with pullers, etc and I had
> to cut the shaft off of get it off then put a whole new actuator shaft
> in (remove transmission).  The end of the shaft is super soft and so if
> the arm doesn't come off easily any thing you do to it will mushroom it
> and then the arm will never come off without more radical surgery.  I
> wish you could just pull the clip and slide this thing off by hand.
> Maybe out west where things aren't as rusty this is an option but not
> where I'm at.  It is easier to undo the engine carrier and drop that
> down an inch or two to get some room.
>
> Ken Wilford
> John 3:16
> www.vanagain.com
>
>
> dylan friedman wrote:
>> The big if is IF you can remove the clutch lever from the shaft.
>> I am 50 50 on removing that part.
>>
>> dylan
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ________________________________
>> From: Sam Walters <syncrosam@GMAIL.COM>
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2009 7:27:13 AM
>> Subject: Re: Manual trans replacement
>>
>> From:  "Tim King" <tking_ms@h...>
>> Date:  Mon Oct 1, 2001  2:57 am
>> Subject:  Re: [Syncro] Time to change out the slave
>> cylinder...(another removal tip)
>>
>> ADVERTISEMENT
>> Hey Folks, I've got a slave tip that will save you some time on this.
>> Brent, sorry I didn't see this earlier, but just got back into the
>> country. (Three weeks in France. Boy French vehicles have come a long
>> way. We had a diesel Renault Laguna that was frankly sweet. Only saw
>> about five vanagons the whole time, but many many other delivery-style
>> vans.) Anyway, I digress...
>>
>> I got a tip from Daryl at AA transaxle that makes removing the slave
>> on a syncro a snap. Basically, you just remove the slave bracket from
>> the tranny by removing ONE snap ring then the clutch lever.
>>
>> 1. Move slave shaft/boot off clutch lever ball. If your slave is
>> totally shot, you can usually just push the slave cylinder shaft/boot
>> off the ball on the clutch lever. If it's a good slave (say you are
>> just R and Ring the tranny), you may need to open the bleeder to make
>> it easy to remove. Just lever it free, then let it hang free.
>>
>> 2. Wiggle the clutch lever off the shaft. If it's been there for a
>> while, you may need some liquid wrench or something, but it should
>> come off by hand.
>>
>> 2.5. Unbolt bracket supports and hose retainers from tranny (above CV
>> shaft).
>>
>> 3. Pull the bracket and slave off as one unit.
>>
>> 4. Pull the unit down under the van (you put it on ramps, right?) and
>> work on it where you have access to it from both ends and room for
>> standard wrenches. You may need to remove a couple of the hose clamps
>> holding the hose to your tranny to give you more slack.
>>
>> 5. Bolt on new unit and install in reverse.
>>
>> 6. Pressure bleed system and hit the road.
>>
>> Using this method takes about 30-40 minutes total, assuming you are
>> using a pressure bleeder like Brent recommends.
>>
>> Note: I'm not sure if it's syncro specific -- I think it requires the
>> flexible plastic fluid lines of the syncro, something my 83 vanagon
>> was lacking.
>>
>> Have fun. This tip from trannyman extraordinaire Daryll at AA
>> transaxle makes a drag of a job a LOT easier.
>>
>> Tim King
>> Seattle, WA
>> 87 Syncro Westy
>>
>>     ----- Original Message -----
>>     From: Brent Christensen
>>     To: Syncro@yahoogroups.com
>>     Sent: Monday, October 01, 2001 5:31 AM
>>     Subject: Re: [Syncro] Time to change out the slave cylinder...
>>
>>     Well, I did the nasty deed and replaced the slave cylinder
>> yesterday morning.  Not all that bad, really.  Dr. Rainer's tip sheet
>> (which I have left attached to this e-mail) was very helpful as a road
>> map, but I would offer the following additional advice to anyone
>> planning this job:
>>
>>     First, having a pressure bleeder made bleeding the system a
>> 5-minute one person job.  If you don't have one already, run out and
>> get one.  I have a unit called an "Eezi-bleed" that I bought years ago
>> for an Austin Healey - about $30 and it is pressurized by a tire (I
>> use a wheelbarrow tire with about 25 psi in it).  A quick search
>> turned them up at http://www.aep.bigstep.com/Eezi.htm
>>
>>     Secondly, a 13 mm  "Crows foot" at the end of a long 3/8"
>> extension worked WONDERS for removing the pesky rear bolt (the one
>> towards the reat of the van).  Forget trying to do it with box
>> wrenches, unless you have a "super stubby" like Snap-On makes, or you
>> are willing to make your own by cutting it in half and grinding the
>> stub smooth.  Another ideal tool would be a 13 mm "distributor wrench"
>> but I was not able to find one, and don't even know if they are made
>> in 13 mm.
>>
>>     Removing the Slave cylinder entirely from the topside is possible,
>> and I would submit, easier.  In fact, if you are lucky, you could do
>> it without ever crawling under the van at all.  The trick is to undo
>> the banjo fitting at the slave cylinder, which is a bit tricky if you
>> have thick fingers.  You have to force the short coolant hose back far
>> enough so that you can back the bolt out from the banjo nut.  Be
>> prepared, as all the fluid will then leak out from the system, which
>> for me was nothing, since the slave had failed and dumped all its
>> fluid already.  (Also, having a pressure bleeder, I was not worried
>> about introducing air into the system).
>>
>>     The most difficult thing about reinstalling the new unit (which I
>> did as an entire assembly - shaft, boot and cylinder) is getting the
>> nuts started.  When you drop the slave in place, the rod rests against
>> the clutch's throw-out arm (or whatever you want to call it).  This
>> means that the unit wants to sit about 5 mm above its mating surface
>> unless you apply some force, which then compresses the spring inside
>> the cylinder (which is still empty of fluid).  Once the rear nut is
>> started by hand (I used a 13 mm combination wrench slipped in
>> underneath the bolt head to hold it in place, which is tricky) you can
>> crank it down about 1/2 way by pushing the slave down against its
>> mating surface and rotating the nut with your forefinger and middle
>> finger.
>>
>>     Once the slave is secured like this, you can start the forward
>> bolt from underneath (you have to do the rear bolt first, since the
>> only way to put it into position from underneath is to use the hole
>> that the slave cylinder fits into).  Start the nut by hand, then reach
>> in with a long extension and "wobble socket" or 13mm socket on a 3/8"
>> knuckle.  With a wobble socket, there is sufficient clearance - with a
>> knuckle + socket it could be pretty tight.  I was able to completely
>> tighten the forward bolt this way after reaching underneath and
>> placing a box wrench around the head of the bolt and  resting against
>> something.    A couple more turns on the rear bolt head with the
>> crow's foot and the cylinder was in nice and snug.
>>
>>     Next comes the banjo fitting, which was surprisingly easy to get
>> back on.  I pulled back the aforementioned hose and gently started the
>> bolt with a couple of fingers twiddling at it until the threads
>> caught, then tightened it down with a 17mm open end wrench.  Tightened
>> it up and then fit a small plastic tube to the bleeder screw, running
>> it down to an empty brake fluid can propped in the engine bay.
>>
>>     Next, I fitted the pressure bleeder, attached the wheel barrow
>> tire, and then went back and opened the bleeder screw.  I stood and
>> watched the bubbled dribble out of the system while I opened my first
>> beer (when was the last time you did *that* while bleeding a hydraulic
>> system?).  After a couple minutes and no more bubbles, I checked the
>> pedal.  No pedal, so I pumped it slowly about 10 times and turned the
>> bleeder on again by reapplying the air pressure from the tire.  About
>> 30 seconds later another batch of bubbles came out, so I shut
>> everything down, cleaned up, and tool it out for a test drive,
>> everything working beautifully.
>>
>>     Total time for job:  About 2 hours start to finish,  not including
>> setup and cleanup.
>>
>>     Brent Christensen
>>     Santa Barbara, CA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>     >
>>     >
>>     >Removing the Clutch Slave Cylinder
>>     >----------------------------------
>>     >
>>     >1. Even though the clutch slave cylinder is held by only two
>> bolts, it's
>>     > a bear to remove. First thing you should do is to apply generous
>>     > doses of WD40 or similar to the two bolts. And since, if mounted
>>     > correctly, the bolts are sitting there with their heads down and
>>     > their shafts up, the best way to apply the WD40 is from the engine
>>     > compartment. And while you are there, also remove the tiny rubber
>>     > cap on top of the bleeding valve of the slave cylinder before it
>>     > might get lost in the process of the removal.
>>     >
>>     >2. The flexible hose leading to the clutch slave cylinder is
>> attached to
>>     > the frame of the van by two clamps. Remove both these clamps from
>>     > the van.
>>     >
>>     >3. The front bolt holding the clutch slave cylinder is best
>> removed from
>>     > below the van with a 13mm socket on top of a long extension
>> while at
>>     > the same time holding the nut with a 13mm wrench. The shorter that
>>     > wrench, the better. The real problem, however, is the rear bolt.
>>     > Push up the rubber boot protecting the push rod for the clutch
>> lever
>>     > as much as possible. This way you are then able to access both ends
>>     > of the rear bolt from the engine bay. Sneak in a 13mm wrench in
>>     > order to hold the head of the rear bolt and remove the nut using
>>     > another 13mm wrench. Again, the shorter this wrench the better, and
>>     > a flat box wrench is probably suited best, because it will fit
>> every
>>     > 30 degrees.
>>     >
>>     >4. When the two bolts are removed dive under the van again, pull the
>>     > push rod out of the rubber boot at the lower end of the slave
>>     > cylinder and also gently pull the rubber boot from the slave
>>     > cylinder. If necessary use a small screw driver to convince the
>> boot
>>     > of letting go. Finally carefully find a path between tranny, fuel
>>     > tank, slave cylinder mounting bracket, half axle, coolant and
>> exhaust
>>     > piping, and maybe some other things to bring the slave cylinder
>> down,
>>     > so it will hang on its hose right below the tranny.
>>     >
>>     >5. In order to minimize the loss of brake fluid you should now
>> remove as
>>     > much brake fluid from the reservoir in the instrument cluster on
>> the
>>     > dash as is necessary to lower the brake fluid level below the hose
>>     > entering the reservoir from the right. This way opening the hose at
>>     > the slave cylinder will not drain the reservoir any more.
>>     >
>>     >6. To disconnect the hydraulic fitting at the end of the hose
>> from the
>>     > slave cylinder you need something to catch the hydraulic fluid
>> still
>>     > in the hose, as well as a 17mm box wrench, a piece of wood, and a
>>     > hammer. Put the box wrench on the head of the hyraulic fitting in
>>     > such a way that wrench and slave cylinder form a rather flat
>>     > triangle, cylinder to the left, wrench to the right, and the
>> head of
>>     > the hydraulic bolt pointing towards you. Place this triangle on the
>>     > piece of wood and then carefully hammer on the eye of the wrench,
>>     > flattening the triangle even more and thus loosening the bolt of
>> the
>>     > hydraulic fitting. Be prepared to catch the brake fluid which now
>>     > starts oozing out. Remove the hydraulic fitting altogether and make
>>     > sure not to lose the two copper washers sitting on the hydraulic
>> bolt
>>     > on either side of the hydraulic eye. Drain the rest of the brake
>>     > fluid from both, the hose and the slave cylinder (push the piston
>>     > back manually).
>>     >
>>     >
>>     >The Slave Cylinder Repair Kit
>>     >-----------------------------
>>     >
>>     >The slave cylinder repair kit contains
>>     >
>>     > - a boot for the push rod
>>     >
>>     > - a main seal for the piston
>>     >
>>     > - a cap for the bleeding valve
>>     >
>>     >
>>     >
>>     >Repairing the Clutch Slave Cylinder
>>     >-----------------------------------
>>     >
>>     >1. Place the slave cylinder in a vise, bleeding valve down. As
>> you can
>>     > see now, the piston is retained by a circular clip sitting in a
>> grove
>>     > in the slave cylinder. However, that's not the regular C-clip you
>>     > can remove with the corresponding pliers. Rather use a small screw
>>     > driver and a hammer and drive the screw driver between circlip and
>>     > slave cylinder at the side oposite the gap in the circlip, at the
>>     > same time pushing the piston slightly back with one finger of the
>>     > hand holding the screw driver. This will push one side of the
>>     > circlip down while the other end will go up allowing you now to
>>     > easily remove the circlip.
>>     >
>>     >2. Next push the piston down the slave cylinder, close the
>> opening for
>>     > the hydraulic fitting with your thumb, and then suddenly remove the
>>     > thumb so the piston will shoot up and half way out of the slave
>>     > cylinder, where you now can easily pull it out altogether. Remove
>>     > the spring from the rear end of the piston and then remove the old
>>     > seal by simply using a srew driver and pulling the seal over the
>> rear
>>     > end of the piston (it's elastic enough).
>>     >
>>     >3. Dry the piston as well as the inside of the slave cylinder and
>> then
>>     > use finest emery-cloth to remove any residues from both,
>> cylinder and
>>     > piston.
>>     >
>>     >4. Next, pull the new seal over the rear end of the piston. Mind
>> that
>>     > the upper and lower edges of the seal have different outer
>> diameters.
>>     > The greater outer diameter points to the rear end of the piston,
>>     > where the spring is attached. Put spring and piston back into the
>>     > slave cylinder, push the piston down a little, and insert the
>>     > circlip.
>>     >
>>     >5. Now turn the slave cylinder in the vise upside down, so that the
>>     > bleeding valve is pointing upwards. Again apply some WD40, then use
>>     > a 7mm wrench to screw the valve entirely out of the slave cylinder.
>>     > Clean the valve, in particular the little hole near the pointed
>> end,
>>     > then reassemble the valve and close it tightly.
>>     >
>>     >
>>     >Installing the Clutch Slave Cylinder
>>     >------------------------------------
>>     >
>>     >Basically undo all the steps you did before to remove the slave
>> cylinder
>>     >in reverse order. However, mind a few things:
>>     >
>>     > - Put one of the copper washers on the hydraulic bolt, then the
>>     > hydraulic eye, then the other copper washer. Then screw the
>>     > hydraulic fitting into the slave cylinder. To tighten the bolt,
>>     > again form a flat triangle with the slave cylinder and a 17mm box
>>     > wrench. This time, however, the box wrench is at the left side,
>>     > the slave cylinder at the right, and the head of the hydraulic bolt
>>     > is again facing you. The rubber boot should not yet be installed.
>>     > Before you fasten the bolt by placing this triangle on a piece of
>>     > wood and striking the eye of the wrench more or less gently with a
>>     > hammer, make sure the orientaion of the hydraulic hose is roughly
>>     > perpendicular to the slave cylinder and downward.
>>     >
>>     > - Top off the brake fluid reservoir in the instrument cluster and
>>     > bleed the system. The bleeding valve is easily accessible now with
>>     > the slave cylinder just hanging below the tranny, and you can also
>>     > easily check for any leaks (if the slave cylinder is leaking at the
>>     > hydraulic fitting you probably forgot to insert one of the two
>>     > copper washers).
>>     >
>>     > - Install the rubber boot (but not yet the push rod) at the
>> lower end
>>     > of the slave cylinder and -- folding the rubber boot against the
>>     > slave cylinder -- persuade the slave cylinder to go up above its
>>     > mounting bracket again. Insert the rear bolt from below and screw
>>     > on the nut a few turns only. Then insert the push rod between the
>>     > clutch operating lever and the slave cylinder piston, press the
>>     > slave cylinder down against its mounting bracket, insert the front
>>     > bolt with its shaft pointing up, and screw on the nut. Fasten the
>>     > front bolt from below using a 13mm socket on a long extension and a
>>     > 13mm wrench to fix the bolt, then fasten the rear bolt from the
>>     > engine bay using two 13mm wrenches. Place the rubber cap on the
>>     > bleeding valve.
>>     >
>>     > - Pull the lower end of the rubber boot down the push rod until it
>>     > sits in the small grove at the lower end of the rod. Attach the
>>     > two clamps to the frame that are holding the flexible clutch hose.
>>     >
>>     > - Test the operation of the clutch: pull parking brake, put the
>>     > tranny into first gear, step on both, the brake and the clutch
>>     > pedal, and then start the engine.
>>
>>
>