There is all sorts of myth regarding engine break in and much of it is not
based on anything real.

1) All rebuilds will have some junk, dirt, loose carbon particles etc. maybe
changing the oil after a short run makes sense but most of this should be
absorbed by the filter. Use a good filter. The Mobil 1, Fram Tough guard,
and Purolator Pure One are amongst the most efficient out there. The
Purolator seems to have a higher pressure drop. Oil testing has shown these
to be effective filters supporting 7,500 mile oil changes. 

2) Start off with the same oil that you plan to use. Even so called dino
oils have a lot of anti friction additives. In reality, if there is anything
so tight it has to wear in you want the best protection to avoid galling.
You want some wear, not tear. Do not use a lighter oil than you normally
would just cause you want something to break in. 

3) Drive normally. Gently but normal. Letting the engine idle for 10 minutes
while warming it up isn't helping anything. Remember the pistons rely on
splash for some oiling. Rev that engine and get the cylinders wet. Yes,
avoid long full throttle runs until the rings seat but an occasional spurt
is a good thing.

4) Vary speed while driving. This will help seat the rings and define the
carbon ridge at the top of the piston. 

5) Maintain and regularly check the coolant and oil levels. Do not overfill
the crankcase.  4.5 quarts for oil and filter change is plenty. Mark the
dipstick. Make sure the cooling system maintains pressure. Test it!

After a few thousand miles, have the oil tested. This will also pick up
antifreeze leaks at the base of the cylinders or from under the head nuts.  

Dennis
  

-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of
Robert Stewart
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 6:27 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Best Practices for Engine Rebuild Break In Process

Hey Everyone,

My rebuilt engine is going back in the van this week. What are the  
best practices to follow when breaking it in?

My rebuilt engine has rebuilt heads from Van-Cafe and Cofap pistons in  
it.

I was told by one person to change the oil after the first 30 minutes  
of running the engine. Then after 500 miles change the oil and filter,  
then again at 1,000 before moving from Dino Oil to Synthetic. It was  
suggested I use 10w/40 Dino Oil first before moving to Synthetic.

I just and article from Go-Westy and want to know if people agree with  
what they say or have different thoughts.

http://www.gowesty.com/library_article.php?id=860

During the first 1000 miles of engine life:

1) Allow coolant temperature to come up to normal running temperature  
before driving.
2) Avoid full throttle application.
3) Do not exceed an engine speed of 4,000 rpm.
4) Do not use cruise control or maintain a constant engine speed for  
more than 10 minutes at a time.
5) Maximize warm-up cycles; the more times the engine is brought up to  
full operating temperature and allowed to cool fully, the better.

During the first 10,000 miles:

1) Monitor oil consumption carefully; check oil at EVERY gasoline fill- 
up.
Note: The distance between the two notches on the dipstick is NOT one  
quart. Adding a full quart when oil level is at the bottom notch WILL  
result in over-filling, very high oil consumption, and possible engine  
damage.
2) Keep the oil level closer to the lower notch than the upper notch.
3) Use 20/50 non-synthetic oil (any brand). Do not switch to synthetic  
oil until oil consumption has stabilized.

After 10,000 miles and for the life of the engine:

1) Never apply more than � throttle before coolant temperature is up  
to normal, which is about the middle of the gauge.
2) Contrary to popular belief, it is NOT good for the coolant  
temperature to stay at the low end of the gauge. If you notice your  
coolant temperature is not coming up to normal it is cause for alarm� 
get it checked out.
3) Use only the top quality synthetic oil of 15/50-weight.

About oil consumption:
It is normal for an engine to consume oil. Following the guidelines  
above will have a direct effect on how much oil the engine will consume 
�forever. The factory specification from VW is that up to one quart  
per 1000 miles is �normal.� The oil capacity of a water boxer is 5  
quarts. These engines have a �wet sump,� and as long as the oil pump  
pick-up does not starve for oil, oil pressure in the engine will be  
the same regardless of whether there is one quart of oil present or  
five; it makes no difference. In general, if no oil has to be added  
between oil changes, that is what we consider to be �acceptable.� That  
equates to around � quart per 1000 miles. That means that at 3500  
miles, the engine will be no more than 2 quarts low.