Dennis,

RE: "Start off with the same oil that you plan to use."
I was planning on running the 15/50 Mobil 1 Synthetic, you think it's  
Ok to run that from the first oiling of the engine onward?

I thought that was not to be done.

Also I thought we should only be using the (Mann/Mahle) Oil Filters? I  
thought I understood you saying I should use "Mobil 1, Fram Tough guard,
> and Purolator Pure One are amongst the most efficient out there."   
> Where do I find the exact model numbers I should be using?

Little confused and I really can't afford to screw this up.

Thanks your assistance,
Robert
NY

On May 5, 2009, at 9:17 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:

> There is all sorts of myth regarding engine break in and much of it  
> is not
> based on anything real.
>
> 1) All rebuilds will have some junk, dirt, loose carbon particles  
> etc. maybe
> changing the oil after a short run makes sense but most of this  
> should be
> absorbed by the filter. Use a good filter. The Mobil 1, Fram Tough  
> guard,
> and Purolator Pure One are amongst the most efficient out there. The
> Purolator seems to have a higher pressure drop. Oil testing has  
> shown these
> to be effective filters supporting 7,500 mile oil changes.
>
> 2) Start off with the same oil that you plan to use. Even so called  
> dino
> oils have a lot of anti friction additives. In reality, if there is  
> anything
> so tight it has to wear in you want the best protection to avoid  
> galling.
> You want some wear, not tear. Do not use a lighter oil than you  
> normally
> would just cause you want something to break in.
>
> 3) Drive normally. Gently but normal. Letting the engine idle for 10  
> minutes
> while warming it up isn't helping anything. Remember the pistons  
> rely on
> splash for some oiling. Rev that engine and get the cylinders wet.  
> Yes,
> avoid long full throttle runs until the rings seat but an occasional  
> spurt
> is a good thing.
>
> 4) Vary speed while driving. This will help seat the rings and  
> define the
> carbon ridge at the top of the piston.
>
> 5) Maintain and regularly check the coolant and oil levels. Do not  
> overfill
> the crankcase.  4.5 quarts for oil and filter change is plenty. Mark  
> the
> dipstick. Make sure the cooling system maintains pressure. Test it!
>
> After a few thousand miles, have the oil tested. This will also pick  
> up
> antifreeze leaks at the base of the cylinders or from under the head  
> nuts.
>
> Dennis
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On  
> Behalf Of
> Robert Stewart
> Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 6:27 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Best Practices for Engine Rebuild Break In Process
>
> Hey Everyone,
>
> My rebuilt engine is going back in the van this week. What are the
> best practices to follow when breaking it in?
>
> My rebuilt engine has rebuilt heads from Van-Cafe and Cofap pistons in
> it.
>
> I was told by one person to change the oil after the first 30 minutes
> of running the engine. Then after 500 miles change the oil and filter,
> then again at 1,000 before moving from Dino Oil to Synthetic. It was
> suggested I use 10w/40 Dino Oil first before moving to Synthetic.
>
> I just and article from Go-Westy and want to know if people agree with
> what they say or have different thoughts.
>
> http://www.gowesty.com/library_article.php?id=860
>
> During the first 1000 miles of engine life:
>
> 1) Allow coolant temperature to come up to normal running temperature
> before driving.
> 2) Avoid full throttle application.
> 3) Do not exceed an engine speed of 4,000 rpm.
> 4) Do not use cruise control or maintain a constant engine speed for
> more than 10 minutes at a time.
> 5) Maximize warm-up cycles; the more times the engine is brought up to
> full operating temperature and allowed to cool fully, the better.
>
> During the first 10,000 miles:
>
> 1) Monitor oil consumption carefully; check oil at EVERY gasoline  
> fill-
> up.
> Note: The distance between the two notches on the dipstick is NOT one
> quart. Adding a full quart when oil level is at the bottom notch WILL
> result in over-filling, very high oil consumption, and possible engine
> damage.
> 2) Keep the oil level closer to the lower notch than the upper notch.
> 3) Use 20/50 non-synthetic oil (any brand). Do not switch to synthetic
> oil until oil consumption has stabilized.
>
> After 10,000 miles and for the life of the engine:
>
> 1) Never apply more than � throttle before coolant temperature is up
> to normal, which is about the middle of the gauge.
> 2) Contrary to popular belief, it is NOT good for the coolant
> temperature to stay at the low end of the gauge. If you notice your
> coolant temperature is not coming up to normal it is cause for alarm�
> get it checked out.
> 3) Use only the top quality synthetic oil of 15/50-weight.
>
> About oil consumption:
> It is normal for an engine to consume oil. Following the guidelines
> above will have a direct effect on how much oil the engine will  
> consume
> �forever. The factory specification from VW is that up to one quart
> per 1000 miles is �normal.� The oil capacity of a water boxer is 5
> quarts. These engines have a �wet sump,� and as long as the oil pump
> pick-up does not starve for oil, oil pressure in the engine will be
> the same regardless of whether there is one quart of oil present or
> five; it makes no difference. In general, if no oil has to be added
> between oil changes, that is what we consider to be �acceptable.� That
> equates to around � quart per 1000 miles. That means that at 3500
> miles, the engine will be no more than 2 quarts low.
>