Dennis is pretty close to a God - what he says, we do - don't argue or maybe
he'll go away again...

On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 1:16 PM, Robert Stewart <robertmstewart@mac.com>wrote:

> Dennis,
>
> RE: "Start off with the same oil that you plan to use."
> I was planning on running the 15/50 Mobil 1 Synthetic, you think it's Ok to
> run that from the first oiling of the engine onward?
>
> I thought that was not to be done.
>
> Also I thought we should only be using the (Mann/Mahle) Oil Filters? I
> thought I understood you saying I should use "Mobil 1, Fram Tough guard,
>
>> and Purolator Pure One are amongst the most efficient out there."  Where
>> do I find the exact model numbers I should be using?
>>
>
> Little confused and I really can't afford to screw this up.
>
> Thanks your assistance,
> Robert
> NY
>
>
> On May 5, 2009, at 9:17 PM, Dennis Haynes wrote:
>
>  There is all sorts of myth regarding engine break in and much of it is not
>> based on anything real.
>>
>> 1) All rebuilds will have some junk, dirt, loose carbon particles etc.
>> maybe
>> changing the oil after a short run makes sense but most of this should be
>> absorbed by the filter. Use a good filter. The Mobil 1, Fram Tough guard,
>> and Purolator Pure One are amongst the most efficient out there. The
>> Purolator seems to have a higher pressure drop. Oil testing has shown
>> these
>> to be effective filters supporting 7,500 mile oil changes.
>>
>> 2) Start off with the same oil that you plan to use. Even so called dino
>> oils have a lot of anti friction additives. In reality, if there is
>> anything
>> so tight it has to wear in you want the best protection to avoid galling.
>> You want some wear, not tear. Do not use a lighter oil than you normally
>> would just cause you want something to break in.
>>
>> 3) Drive normally. Gently but normal. Letting the engine idle for 10
>> minutes
>> while warming it up isn't helping anything. Remember the pistons rely on
>> splash for some oiling. Rev that engine and get the cylinders wet. Yes,
>> avoid long full throttle runs until the rings seat but an occasional spurt
>> is a good thing.
>>
>> 4) Vary speed while driving. This will help seat the rings and define the
>> carbon ridge at the top of the piston.
>>
>> 5) Maintain and regularly check the coolant and oil levels. Do not
>> overfill
>> the crankcase.  4.5 quarts for oil and filter change is plenty. Mark the
>> dipstick. Make sure the cooling system maintains pressure. Test it!
>>
>> After a few thousand miles, have the oil tested. This will also pick up
>> antifreeze leaks at the base of the cylinders or from under the head nuts.
>>
>> Dennis
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf
>> Of
>> Robert Stewart
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 6:27 PM
>> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
>> Subject: Best Practices for Engine Rebuild Break In Process
>>
>> Hey Everyone,
>>
>> My rebuilt engine is going back in the van this week. What are the
>> best practices to follow when breaking it in?
>>
>> My rebuilt engine has rebuilt heads from Van-Cafe and Cofap pistons in
>> it.
>>
>> I was told by one person to change the oil after the first 30 minutes
>> of running the engine. Then after 500 miles change the oil and filter,
>> then again at 1,000 before moving from Dino Oil to Synthetic. It was
>> suggested I use 10w/40 Dino Oil first before moving to Synthetic.
>>
>> I just and article from Go-Westy and want to know if people agree with
>> what they say or have different thoughts.
>>
>> http://www.gowesty.com/library_article.php?id=860
>>
>> During the first 1000 miles of engine life:
>>
>> 1) Allow coolant temperature to come up to normal running temperature
>> before driving.
>> 2) Avoid full throttle application.
>> 3) Do not exceed an engine speed of 4,000 rpm.
>> 4) Do not use cruise control or maintain a constant engine speed for
>> more than 10 minutes at a time.
>> 5) Maximize warm-up cycles; the more times the engine is brought up to
>> full operating temperature and allowed to cool fully, the better.
>>
>> During the first 10,000 miles:
>>
>> 1) Monitor oil consumption carefully; check oil at EVERY gasoline fill-
>> up.
>> Note: The distance between the two notches on the dipstick is NOT one
>> quart. Adding a full quart when oil level is at the bottom notch WILL
>> result in over-filling, very high oil consumption, and possible engine
>> damage.
>> 2) Keep the oil level closer to the lower notch than the upper notch.
>> 3) Use 20/50 non-synthetic oil (any brand). Do not switch to synthetic
>> oil until oil consumption has stabilized.
>>
>> After 10,000 miles and for the life of the engine:
>>
>> 1) Never apply more than � throttle before coolant temperature is up
>> to normal, which is about the middle of the gauge.
>> 2) Contrary to popular belief, it is NOT good for the coolant
>> temperature to stay at the low end of the gauge. If you notice your
>> coolant temperature is not coming up to normal it is cause for alarm�
>> get it checked out.
>> 3) Use only the top quality synthetic oil of 15/50-weight.
>>
>> About oil consumption:
>> It is normal for an engine to consume oil. Following the guidelines
>> above will have a direct effect on how much oil the engine will consume
>> �forever. The factory specification from VW is that up to one quart
>> per 1000 miles is �normal.� The oil capacity of a water boxer is 5
>> quarts. These engines have a �wet sump,� and as long as the oil pump
>> pick-up does not starve for oil, oil pressure in the engine will be
>> the same regardless of whether there is one quart of oil present or
>> five; it makes no difference. In general, if no oil has to be added
>> between oil changes, that is what we consider to be �acceptable.� That
>> equates to around � quart per 1000 miles. That means that at 3500
>> miles, the engine will be no more than 2 quarts low.
>>
>>

-- 
Jake

1984 Vanagon GL
1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"

Crescent Beach, BC

www.crescentbeachguitar.com
http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27