In a message dated 15/05/2009 11:03:12 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:

Jeff, to remove the  hardware that is there is the hard part for sure and
there is no one ultimate  way.  If the threads of the bolts or studs are
seized in the aluminium then  you may never get them out no matter what trick
you try.  At that point the  only solution is to cut off the bolt or stud
flush with the surface of the  head then drill and tap a new hole which may
sometimes lead to enlarging the  hole then you will need to insert Heilicols to
bring back the hole to the 8mm  thread size.  I sometime like to drill out
all the holes and insert  Helicoils in all of them. This makes a better
longer lasting repair but of  course not all customers are willing to pay for
such shop time.  Getting  them out, if you can remove the headers first then it
will be easier to  work.  On the studs with nuts, the nuts can be cut off
so the headers can  be removed.  On the bolts if they do not turn cut the
pipe off flush with  the flange then work on the bolt removal, if the bolt
breaks then remove the  flange and use vise grips on the remaining part of the
bolt.  Heat  from an acetylene torch or yellow propane is helpful.  Shock to
the  bolt or stud with a hammer and or hammer and drift is helpful.  Shock
tapping the area of the head around the bolt/stud is helpful.  Penetrating
oil, the best money can by, is helpful.  Wax introduced on the hot  threads
is helpful.  BUT, as I said before you may not win them all  and drilling
and tapping is the next step.  This will NOT be easy  especially at the rear
two ports.  You may need to lower the engine to  get to them.  ALL I can say
further is GOOD LUCK.  I've been doing  this for years and have encountered
every scenario imaginable and some  of them were not pretty and the cu
stomers bill was big !
    Now, to the install.  I highly  recommend using Stainless Steel 8x35mm
bolts is all positions, NO  STUDS.  I have a kit I sell with all the
hardware and gaskets  needed.  From my _Vanagon New  Parts_
(http://frankcondelli.com/sales.htm)  webpage > Gasket & hardware kit for header pipes &  collector
 - $39.95  And of course I highly recommend installing  my Stainless Steel
exhaust system as this will insure you do not have  to EVER fool around with
this project again.  See my _Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust  Systems_
(http://frankcondelli.com/exhaust.htm)  webpage.   See also my _Vanagon Exhaust
System Install_ (http://frankcondelli.com/install.htm)   webpage.

>>>>>Hi, The bolts (I think they are hex head cap screws  and not studs with
nuts) that attach my front and rear header pipes on my  86 - 2.1
vanagon to the engine look very corroded.  It is time to  replace that
portion of my exhaust system.  Is there an archive  perhaps even with
pictures and instructions of what I am going to need to  do to remove
the hardware, and replace it with something that is easier to  get out
next time?  I understand this is going to be long, knuckle  crushing
process, because my local repair shop really does not want to  touch
it.  The pipes are still intact, but I have been avoiding this  like
the plague. I could use a very dumbed-down description if anyone  can
help me with  that.<<<<<<<<<

Cheers,

Frank  Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada
'87 Westy & Lionel Trains (_Collection for sale_
(http://frankcondelli.com/trainsal.htm) )
_Frank Condelli &  Associates_ (http://frankcondelli.com/busindex.html)  -
Vanagon/Vanagon Westfalia Service in the Ottawa Valley
_Vanagon Stainless Steel Exhaust  Systems_
(http://frankcondelli.com/exhaust.htm)
_BusFusion_ (http://www.busfusion.com/bfhome.htm)  a  VW Camper camping
event, Almonte, ON, June 11 ~ 14,  2009