What I have found is that many times it looks worse than it is.  I only
use 6 point sockets.  If the original size (13mm) seems loose don't try
it and strip it out, go to the next size down (12mm) even if you have to
pound it on.  Use a torch!  You can pick up a map gas torch at Advance
Auto or Autozone or Home Depot for not much money.  Be careful with it
but heating up the head in the area right around the bolt will work
miracles in releasing the seize they have taken.  Of course use your
choice of WD-40 or PB Blaster on the hardware as well.  I have had very
good luck with this method and haven't had to drill/tap for a while this
way.  Take your time, put studs and copper clad locking nuts back in on
all the exhaust ports.  That way you can cut the nuts off with a chisel
the next time.  We sell the S&S Header exhaust system for $349 which
many folks buy and have good luck with.  It is about a third of the cost
of the stock system at the moments and is good quality, made in the USA
as well.  Let me know if we can help you further.

Ken Wilford
John 3:16
www.vanagain.com

Jeff Hartman wrote:
> Hi, The bolts (I think they are hex head cap screws and not studs with
> nuts) that attach my front and rear header pipes on my 86 - 2.1
> vanagon to the engine look very corroded.  It is time to replace that
> portion of my exhaust system.  Is there an archive perhaps even with
> pictures and instructions of what I am going to need to do to remove
> the hardware, and replace it with something that is easier to get out
> next time?  I understand this is going to be long, knuckle crushing
> process, because my local repair shop really does not want to touch
> it.  The pipes are still intact, but I have been avoiding this like
> the plague. I could use a very dumbed-down description if anyone can
> help me with that.
>
> Thanks, Jeff Hartman
> Juneau, Alaska
>
> 1986 Vanagon 2.1 L
>
>