On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 1:09 PM, Dave Woolridge
<Dave.Woolridge@mi.mun.ca> wrote:
> Okay I was just out under the van, I can't find the code but did find a big 2.0 and Mexico. �My engine is mounted at 10 degrees. �Is it possible that it is hidden by the rubber at the mounting point? �Looking at the invoice for the conversion there is "S/N: VSGTI", is this possibly the code?
>
> BTW: the mechanic who did the conversion was great. �I had tons of confidence in him. �Unfortunately, he moved out west.
>
> RE: an earlier suggestions I have no converter.
>
> Ciao Dave
>

Sorry about directing you to wrong side of block for engine code. As
Scott suggest, likely an ABA. Same as mine.

Ok, then. Your conversion sounds the same as mine.

Is you engine lid "tubbed" something like this?

http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/EngineLidTubbedIn.jpg/EngineLidTubbedIn-full;init:.jpg

Scotts comments about distributor timing reminded me of some details.

Rotor on distributor should be lined up to #1 hash mark when cam lined
up to OT and crank lined mark lined up with mark on timing belt cover.
If you want to check dizzy timing, line up cam/crank, then check to
see if dizzy lined up. If not, and assuming it's only a little off,
easy to adjust. Loosen 13 mm bolt on dizzy, adjust, tighten bolt.

Pic of cam/crank timing marks (you can see how cam is a "hair" off. Works fine)

http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/temp3

On my conversion, the CMP sensor (likely on dizzy on yours) caused a
power loss. The weird part was that it only threw a CMP DTC code
*some* of the time. i.e. a mechanic checked it, cleared the code, said
it didn't come back. I found the same thing, but if I drove it for a
while, code would come back. I suspected the cam/crank timing, (as it
was a *hair* off.... see above) but suspected/gambled on it not being
the cause. I replaced dizzy, (hence CMP) works fine. This CMP sensor
(hall type sensor) can be replaced by itself, but if dizzy is
original, you need to take it apart to do so. My aftermarket dizzy
allows replacement of sensor w/o taking dizzy apart.

Inspect quality of wires to CMP sensor. Prior to installing the wiring
harness, I noticed the wires on mine were cracked. (as were several
others)

http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/CrackedWires1a.jpg

I repaired them. Regardless, this may have caused the CMP failure
prior to engine install. FWIW, the "engine" portion of the wiring
harness sees a lot of heat/chemicals. Not unusual to see cracks.
Depends on age etc I guess.

Oh ya. Another easy thing to check is the large black round 27 (28?)
pin connector for corrosion. I doubt this is an issue, but here's the
pics anyway:

http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/28pinConnector.jpg
http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/28pinconnector2.jpg

The temp sensor can also cause trouble. Easy replacement. But again,
if faulty, it should throw a code.

If you're on a budget, have a PC laptop, and want to check for DTC's,
get the proper connector cables off of e-bay, download a share ware
version of VAG-COM (VW diagnostics software), load it up on your PC
laptop, run the diagnostics yourself. Pretty easy.

Neil.

-- 
Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"

http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/

http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines