Very interesting, i didn't think about that! I will check that out.

Thanks, Ben

On Mon, 20 Jul 2009 07:59:42 -0300, Dave Arthur <dave.arthur@NSCC.CA> wrote:

>I was adjusting my rig yesterday, I used the 450ma +/- 30ma current draw
>method to set the idle control valve. Adjusting the bypass screw on the TB
>adjusted the ma draw of the unit (an indication of how hard it was working)
>but no change in idle speed. I conclude that the idle control box knows how
>fast the engine is going and regulates the amount of air the valve bypasses
>to regulate the idle speed.. The ONLY was the idle control box knows how
>fast the engine is going is through its connection to the the distributor
>hall sensor. If the engine runs then the hall sensor works...
>
>So ... There is a wiring problem that doesn't allow the hall sensor signal
>to get to the idle control box. On my rig I had a corroded connector (white
>wires with a yellow connector, above the thermostat housing) it had a
>resistance of 50-60 ohms, enough to show continuity but attenuate the
>signal.
>
>Is there a prize :-)
>
>D
>
>
>On 20/07/09 12:25 AM, "Benny boy" <huotb@VIDEOTRON.CA> wrote:
>
>> (1984 van) Ok, van run super fine but!!!! Here is a funny one... i rebuilt
>> an engine and we have a problem Houston, very low idle, around 500-600. No
>> way i can raise this one easily with TB. So, let's see some suggestion!
>>
>> NO, it,s not idle control box, NO it's no timing, NO it's not ign unit... No
>> it's no ECU, no it's not temp 2 or OS. I think I know the answer but i'm
>> waiting.
>>
>> It's a fun game.
>>
>> Hint: How can it be TB?????
>>
>> Ben