My mistake .
It's DuraMIX 4125
here's a company that sells it.
http://www.autobodysupply.net/category-s/79.htm

the mixing and applying gun -  I think I had to pay about 60 bucks for it,
but you only need to buy that once.
I think a set of twin tubes cost as much as 45 dolars ( ouch)  ........hope
I'm wrong about that price.

the 4125 sets up fast.
I forgot to mention that for large areas, I use small overlapping metal
sheets or plates and what works is to prepare several of those ......
like shape them to fit, then glue in about 5 at once if you can.

the mixing tubes cost a buck each. The stuff sets up fast .........but man
is it strong stuff.
scott
www.turbovans.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Whittaker" <rogerwhitt1@GMAIL.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: Rust Rot

> dear rusty nomore
> do you have a link for that Duramax 4125
> i can only find the diesel engine and a concrete finnish with that name
> thank you
> yours
>
> On Sat, Aug 1, 2009 at 2:08 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans <
> scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:
>
>> Sure, it's easy, I specialize in it even.
>> Sounds like an odd shaped spot to deal with .......but here's what I do ,
>> even for a hole clear through.
>>
>> first........pick, dig, or grind away ALL flakey rusty metal. Even if all
>> you end up with is swiss cheese. Ulitmately .......all junky flakey metal
>> needs to not be there.
>> If there's no holes through.......then it's super easy to deal with.
>>
>> so you've got bare metal, or what's left of it..........treath that with
>> 'rust converter' .....
>> two kinds I've seen, one in a spray can, one you brush on.  Hardware
>> stores
>> and good automotive stores have them.  Treat the metal with this stuff.
>> A 'too strong one' is Osphro .....
>> it etches the metal real well, and it can't rust again there, but
>> ......it'll eat your concrete floor too. So be careful with that stuff.
>> I have even used a dental 'spray pick'  to spray osphro or any liguid
>> rust
>> treatment like 3 or 4 feet back inside a frame rail.
>>
>> then ........the way I fill in metal.
>> Get some good material to work with. For sheet metal kind of thing, get
>> galvanized sheet metal at the hardward store.
>> When that's not thick enough .......find whatever you can. I save old
>> .......whatever, 'car door skin' .......for material to work with.
>> The more structural the spot......the thicker the stuff you need of
>> course.
>> Even steel plate if that's what you've got and it's right for the
>> application.
>>
>> cut and shape and hammer that to fit perfecty.  Years ago I found a
>> channel
>> lock pliers with not teeth in the jaws........I bend my metal with that
>> so
>> the metal doesnt' get nicked up from the pliers jaws.  But get your piece
>> of
>> metal to go in the spot.
>>
>> the best metal bonding adhesive I've found so far is Duramax 4125, which
>> you
>> get online or at a professional grade paint and bodywork supply place.
>> You
>> need a special gun to apply it as it mixes the two parts.
>>  I call this stuff 'space ship grade metal epoxy'.
>> Not kidding ........the tensile strength must be 10,000 lbs per square
>> inch
>> .......something way up there. You put two pieces of metal together with
>> this stuff.....
>> it's permanent.
>>
>> Then I primer paint all the new areas, I like this 'self-etching' green
>> primer a lot.
>> then finally.......paint with whatever you want.
>>
>> there are paints like POR 15 ......which stands for 'paint over rust '
>> ............those stick like mad, and treat the metal - overkill almost,
>> but
>> awesome shinny and durable and expensive paint.
>> If you do good work, and half take care of things , even ordianry spray
>> paint will hold a long, long time. It's all in the prep.
>> When the final coat of whatever goes on over metal.........it should be
>> like
>> the last 2 % of the entire process. Where 'the real repair' takes place
>> is
>> all in the prep.
>>
>> but that'll fix things quite well. I fixed a rotted out mercedes car
>> floor
>> with this method  ........elephants could jump up and down on it, it's
>> like
>> stronger than the rest of the car almost.
>>  Best resutls are with products designed for bonding metal. Epoxy steel,
>> but not fiberglass say.  Two-part materials that you  mix are always
>> superior to one part things that you don't mix, pretty much.
>>
>> save your vanagon !
>> Scott
>> www.turbovans.com
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "John Rodgers" <inua@CHARTER.NET>
>> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
>> Sent: Saturday, August 01, 2009 7:22 AM
>> Subject: Rust Rot
>>
>>
>>  I had my van up on the rack yesterday as part of the action to replace
>>> the speedometer cable. I opted for the one piece cable and removed the
>>> two piece one from the vehicle. New one works great. As my ol' Granny
>>> used to say " it's slick'r than owl dung!"
>>>
>>> While under there, I looked at the spot right under the foot pedal, and
>>> was dismayed at the degree of rust rot that has occured at that spot.
>>> The shape of the metal at that location looks like a moisture/water
>>> trap. At this stage it's not just rust - but the metal has actually
>>> rotted through. This is going ot cause me some grief if I don't get on
>>> it and make a repair. It's not an easy spot, either.
>>>
>>> Has anyone dealt with this particular issue before. Any input would be
>>> appreciated.
>>>
>>> BTW, my 88 GL is pretty rust free but for this one spot.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> John Rodger
>>> Chelsea, AL
>>>
>>
>
>
> --
> roger w
> From Proverbs:
> Under three things the earth trembles, under four it cannot bear up: a
> servant who becomes king ...
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