it's metric, for sure.
you must have a 'tubing nut wrench' .......
those reach around 5 sides of the hex of the nut.
An open end won't work.
since the lines  junk anyway ..........if you use a good size vice grips on
a nut .........that'll do, but get  a metric tubing nut wrench.
I think they're all 11 mm.
I only use two sizes .....12mm ........that might be clutch hydrualic line,
and 11, for brake lines, I think that's it.

I have rust-free pressure limiting valves if anyone needs one.
I would always put on a better good used part, or a new one.
I've never had any issue with those pressure limiting valves.  I'd just use
a good looking used one myself probably.

a micro torch might come in handy , used very, very carefully.
and I'd be soaking things with penetratig oil 6 times a day for 3 weeks
before commencing work myself, if it's that bad.
I have currently 4 parts vans in a bone dry climate, most FROM a dry climate
too, for hard to find parts or whatever.
if you'd like a good deal on a totally rust-free chassis/body
...........that can be arranged !
have fun !
Scott
turbovans

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark" <mbrush@GMAIL.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2009 7:32 PM
Subject: Re: replacing brake lines

> Whole line is coming out.  I cut it at the "T" junction in the rear.
> Traced
> all the twists and turns to the front - and it ends up (I believe) at the
> brake pressure regulator - which looks pretty scary.  It's shedding rust.
> Almost looks like a log wedged up under the bus, not a mechanical part.
> Anyhow - I'll attempt to remove the other end of the brake line, but I'm
> skeptical.  Any advice on wrench sizes.  Seems like 10mm is too small -
> 11mm
> too big.  Could it be standard?? 3/8 too small 7/16 too big...  Should I
> replace the regulator if it looks like that - seems like a can of worms...
> but I gotta learn somehow.
>
> Mark
> 1990 Westy 2.1 manual
>
> On Tue, Aug 4, 2009 at 3:34 PM, Rob <becida@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> I'd change to whole line rather than try and splice it, a whole lot
>> easier.
>> I'd let drip but that me, you could drain the MC but It will still drip.
>> Good luck.
>>
>> Rob
>>
>>
>> At  8/4/2009 11:35 AM,Mark wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for all the advice - it sounds pretty simple so I think I'll go
>>> for
>>> it.  I found the leak - it's in the line that leads to the rear
>>> junction.
>>> Is it pretty simple to put a splice in if need be?  Also, do I need to
>>> empty
>>> the brake fluid before I remove the junction?  Or do I just loosen the
>>> nut
>>> and let the brake fluid drip out (hopefully not all over my clothes or
>>> face)?
>>>
>>> Mark
>>>
>>> 1990 Westy, manual 2.1
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 4, 2009 at 6:24 AM, Frank Condelli <RAlanen@aol.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> > In a message dated 03/08/2009 8:32:53 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>>> > LISTSERV@GERRY.VANAGON.COM writes:
>>> >
>>> >        Not much to it.  You  will need a tube bender, flaring tool for
>>> > double bubble flare ends,  brake  line, the best you can buy, and new
>>> male
>>> > metric threaded nipples.  Take off  the old line and make a duplicate
>>> then
>>> > install it, one by one
>>> >
>>> > .
>>> >
>>> > >>>>>Anyone have any tips on replacing brake  lines?  Searched the
>>> forum,
>>> > but
>>> > didn't see much.  I've watched  some YouTube videos on how to do it:
>>> > _http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Im2NVo1aw0&NR=1&feature=fvwp_
>>> > (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Im2NVo1aw0&NR=1&feature=fvwp)   -
>>> didn't
>>> > know
>>> > if there were better resources.
>>> >
>>> > I have a leak in a  line that goes from the left rear to the rear
>>> > connector.
>>> > I'm finding rust  in other parts of the system and I'm thinking of
>>> > replacing
>>> > with all new  lines.<<<<<
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Mark
> 1990 Westy (2.1 - manual)