dear rusty nomore
do you have a link for that Duramax 4125
i can only find the diesel engine and a concrete finnish with that name
thank you
yours

On Sat, Aug 1, 2009 at 2:08 PM, Scott Daniel - Turbovans <
scottdaniel@turbovans.com> wrote:

> Sure, it's easy, I specialize in it even.
> Sounds like an odd shaped spot to deal with .......but here's what I do ,
> even for a hole clear through.
>
> first........pick, dig, or grind away ALL flakey rusty metal. Even if all
> you end up with is swiss cheese. Ulitmately .......all junky flakey metal
> needs to not be there.
> If there's no holes through.......then it's super easy to deal with.
>
> so you've got bare metal, or what's left of it..........treath that with
> 'rust converter' .....
> two kinds I've seen, one in a spray can, one you brush on.  Hardware stores
> and good automotive stores have them.  Treat the metal with this stuff.
> A 'too strong one' is Osphro .....
> it etches the metal real well, and it can't rust again there, but
> ......it'll eat your concrete floor too. So be careful with that stuff.
> I have even used a dental 'spray pick'  to spray osphro or any liguid rust
> treatment like 3 or 4 feet back inside a frame rail.
>
> then ........the way I fill in metal.
> Get some good material to work with. For sheet metal kind of thing, get
> galvanized sheet metal at the hardward store.
> When that's not thick enough .......find whatever you can. I save old
> .......whatever, 'car door skin' .......for material to work with.
> The more structural the spot......the thicker the stuff you need of course.
> Even steel plate if that's what you've got and it's right for the
> application.
>
> cut and shape and hammer that to fit perfecty.  Years ago I found a channel
> lock pliers with not teeth in the jaws........I bend my metal with that so
> the metal doesnt' get nicked up from the pliers jaws.  But get your piece
> of
> metal to go in the spot.
>
> the best metal bonding adhesive I've found so far is Duramax 4125, which
> you
> get online or at a professional grade paint and bodywork supply place. You
> need a special gun to apply it as it mixes the two parts.
>  I call this stuff 'space ship grade metal epoxy'.
> Not kidding ........the tensile strength must be 10,000 lbs per square inch
> .......something way up there. You put two pieces of metal together with
> this stuff.....
> it's permanent.
>
> Then I primer paint all the new areas, I like this 'self-etching' green
> primer a lot.
> then finally.......paint with whatever you want.
>
> there are paints like POR 15 ......which stands for 'paint over rust '
> ............those stick like mad, and treat the metal - overkill almost,
> but
> awesome shinny and durable and expensive paint.
> If you do good work, and half take care of things , even ordianry spray
> paint will hold a long, long time. It's all in the prep.
> When the final coat of whatever goes on over metal.........it should be
> like
> the last 2 % of the entire process. Where 'the real repair' takes place is
> all in the prep.
>
> but that'll fix things quite well. I fixed a rotted out mercedes car floor
> with this method  ........elephants could jump up and down on it, it's like
> stronger than the rest of the car almost.
>  Best resutls are with products designed for bonding metal. Epoxy steel,
> but not fiberglass say.  Two-part materials that you  mix are always
> superior to one part things that you don't mix, pretty much.
>
> save your vanagon !
> Scott
> www.turbovans.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Rodgers" <inua@CHARTER.NET>
> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> Sent: Saturday, August 01, 2009 7:22 AM
> Subject: Rust Rot
>
>
>  I had my van up on the rack yesterday as part of the action to replace
>> the speedometer cable. I opted for the one piece cable and removed the
>> two piece one from the vehicle. New one works great. As my ol' Granny
>> used to say " it's slick'r than owl dung!"
>>
>> While under there, I looked at the spot right under the foot pedal, and
>> was dismayed at the degree of rust rot that has occured at that spot.
>> The shape of the metal at that location looks like a moisture/water
>> trap. At this stage it's not just rust - but the metal has actually
>> rotted through. This is going ot cause me some grief if I don't get on
>> it and make a repair. It's not an easy spot, either.
>>
>> Has anyone dealt with this particular issue before. Any input would be
>> appreciated.
>>
>> BTW, my 88 GL is pretty rust free but for this one spot.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> John Rodger
>> Chelsea, AL
>>
>

--
roger w
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