First thing I would think of is running the oil level at 1/2 below the
full mark - I remember someone (Dennis Haynes?) that proved that oil
temps are dramatically lower at that level. Oil pressure could benefit
from that lower oil temperature. We're also assuming the oil cooler is
still in place? Perhaps a check valve is stuck partially open?

The oil buzzer - does it ever activate (if still connected)?

Karl

Dave Mcneely wrote:
> Through all this, oil showed full on the stick, and coolant level was
> never low.  Both low and high speed fan operation was fine.  Boy, the
> high speed one really roars!  On downhills, the temp needle drops so
> that it touches the top of the LED.
> Fixes I've considered include trying the flush despite Mike's dissuasion
> to see if that helps with the temperature, and therefore indirectly with
> the oil pressure.  But it won't help the cold oil pressure, that's
> certain.    Then if the flush doesn't help, move to trying to change out
> cooling system components in order of expense -- cheapest first, moving
> up to the radiator.  I can't believe that the water pump is weak again
> -- I put a new one on it when I first got the vehicle, then it leaked
> and I put the second one on.  New thermostat -- guess I could try
> another, but it really seems to be working well -- coolant temperature
> rises steadily until it stabilizes just above the LED on the gauge.
>
> Any suggestions from anyone who has been patient enough to read this far
> would be much appreciated.  I really am now convinced that the original
> oil pressure drop was due to high operating temperature, but -- the
> newly cropped up problem of low pressure until slightly warmed up -- the
> new oil pump is weak?  It is supposed to be a "heavy duty" pump.