Hi all.

Tips for getting flare nut(s) loose. Especially nut at rear "T"
junction block. If you don't care what happens to line, some info
might be moot. Still it might help.

If possible, only use a proper sized metric flare nut wrench.

Nut at regulator was easy. I applied pic (by feel. See below), then
penetrating fluid and brush before attempting to turn it.

On nut at rear "T", used hook pic to carefully scrape out rust between
line and nut, and where nut meets block. Added penetrating fluid. Wire
brushed. Waited. Repeated. Used Dremel with small wire wheel. Dremel
likely overkill. Placed screwdriver on flat between "T" block and
body. This kept block from twisting. Twisting might apply undue
pressure to other rear lines or block itself (only one screw holding
it in place), but most importantly, it helped to properly apply torque
to flare nut. Tried flare nut wrench, but ended up using small vice
grips to crack nut loose.

I wanted to keep the line "as is" to copy the bends. So.....

"Ragged" (removed) rust on line at/near nut at "T" block, with band of
emery *cloth* so nut would turn and not turn/grab and destroy the
line. Small pair of vice grips on one end of cloth helped as strip of
cloth wasn't long enough. It's a relatively tight space. Looping cloth
around line helped cover most of it.

Pretty sure I'll have to cut the line to remove, but was curious.

On an '81 Westy (though later models may be same or similar design):

Can the entire long brake line from pressure regulator to rear "T"
block be removed in one piece?

It seems caught up in coolant lines etc. at space above front cross
member/gas tank area.

Thanks!

Neil.

--
Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"

http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/

http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines