Dave,

Have you checked the rubber boots on your steering rack and on you CV
joints. A good service interval for re-greasing CV joints is 30K miles. If
you don't know when this was last done you're in for a grease party ;-)
Here's a handy list from unca joel :
 http://www.vanagonauts.com/Things-to-do-for-new-vanagon-owners150.htm

Enjoy your van !

John Meeks
'91 Multivan
Northern Michigan

Vanagon Rescue Squad
http://www.vanagonauts.com/Vanagon_Rescue_Squad74.htm

Radio Call:KC8ZFN

On Tue, Sep 8, 2009 at 9:32 AM, Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@cox.net> wrote:

> When I wrote the following, I was seriously asking for help in making
> sure I addressed all the things needed to make my camper mechanically
> sound and reliable.  So far, several people have responded, but none
> have offered any comments as to what if anything more I should do to put
> the beast into the state of reliability a good many on here seem to
> think should be expected.  This is a plea -- what more should be
> addressed?
>
> Oh, I did not list originally the exhaust system, but I have inspected
> it, and in addition to all the things mentioned below, I have replaced
> the short length of exhaust pipe distal to the muffler (twas rusted).
> Otherwise, exhaust system seems sound, including catalytic converter.
> BTW, for those who have reported on converters that were clogged, and
> that they gutted:  I hope the gutting was a temporary expedient and that
> you have or will be soon replacing the no longer functional units.
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 7, 2009 at 1:29 PM , Dave Mcneely wrote:
>
>
> my van is a '91 Vanagon GL Campmobile that I bought in April of this
> year.
>
>>
>> Oh, I guess what I need is a list of all the do-overs that I need to
>> do
>> to make sure my vanagon mechanical systems are all sound.  Let's see
>> --
>>
>> I've got a nearly new rebuilt engine (22k miles.  chassis has 145k
>> miles).
>> Transmission drained and refilled (manual transmission).
>> I've redone all the ignition parts -- plugs, points, rotor, cap,
>> wires.
>> New air filter.
>> New fuel injection lines (they were part of the engine rebuild).  New
>> fuel filter and new fuel lines from tank to filter and filter on.  New
>> fuel pump.
>> New AFM.
>> five New heavy duty tires, Kumho 857s: 195R14C.  More than meet specs
>> for weight capacity (load level D, spec is for C), 8 ply rating.
>> tires
>> come with lifetime rotate and balance, including spare.  I'm a nut
>> about
>> keeping this up on all my vehicles.  Van drives well with these tires.
>> Run these at 53 psi rear, 43 psi front per VW spec.  Tire spec allows
>> up
>> to 65 psi, which I will go with if I think I may be carrying the
>> maximum
>> weight.
>> Brakes inspected, fluid flushed and refilled, and good to go.
>> Alignment (but, was unaware that one needs (according to some of you
>> guys) to load the vehicle before doing the alignment, do the
>> alignment,
>> drive it, do the alignment again).  Wow.  Of course, that's not
>> DIFFICULT.  Fortunately, mine drives with the steering wheel dead on
>> center, and will track absolutely on a straight, level road, whether
>> loaded or not.  Good enough?  It is considered so on most vehicles.
>> New cv joints.  New ball joints, upper and lower.  Shocks check as
>> excellent (fairly new).  No steering play, no vibration or bounce.
>> Wheel bearings good, newly greased.
>> New radiator, new radiator temperature switch.  Complete flush.  New
>> phosphate free coolant with distilled water (the expensive VW stuff,
>> probably not necessary, but ............ ).  New temperature sender.
>> Fan motor hot post repaired where broken during radiator replacement.
>> New coolant distribution manifold (the one that reportedly fails
>> catastrophically.  Mine broke during another repair, so not so
>> catastrophic).
>> Plan to redo all coolant hoses, and plastic pipe ends, pending new
>> funds.
>> New water pump (twice, due to failure of first new one).  New
>> thermostat.
>> New oil pump (not needed, mistake).
>> New motor mounts.
>> New drive belts.
>> Oil pressure monitoring system redone, including new sensors, new wire
>> to gauge and instrument cluster.  Idiot light and gauge both working
>> properly (gauge reads about 5 lbs lower than actual according to
>> independent mechanical check).  BTW, pressure senders set up on a
>> single
>> tube (with a T) from the engine case for both high and low pressure,
>> eliminating the difficult to access high pressure sender location.
>> Senders and tube secured with a bracket to engine case to minimize
>> vibration.
>> Currently running Valvoline 50W due to extreme summer temps in some
>> areas I've been driving.  Will change to multi-vis (15W-50 if I can
>> get
>> it, otherwise 20W-50 Castrol) next month or so with cooler weather.
>> If
>> I decide to drive during winter, and can't get the 15W-50, I may go
>> with
>> 10W-40, or with 30W.
>> Clutch engages and disengages well.  No idea when it was redone, if
>> ever.  Evidently not with engine replacement, as paperwork does not
>> reflect it.
>> New wiper blades and rear hatch struts.
>> Very slight leak from oil cooler, will replace o-ring at next oil
>> change
>> (not leaking enough to spot under the vehicle, and not enough to
>> require
>> adding oil between changes).
>> I carry spare fuses and bulbs, and spare drive belts.  Guess I'll get
>> some of that "Rescue Tape."
>>
>> I keep my AAA card and cell phone handy.
>>
>> What have I missed?
>>
>> Dave Mc
>>
>