Labor 1.5 hrs, at whatever hourly rate your mechanic charges.  Around
here, $85.00 per hour is common.  If you have a mechanic who will
install parts you bought elsewhere, that is great.  Many will not.

On Wed, Sep 16, 2009 at 4:24 PM , B Feddish wrote:

> Sooo. I'm going to assume that "grindy", "bearing sounding" noise I've
> been
> hearing all summer is my water pump. I've suspected it all along but
> wishful
> thinking kept me thinking my newly rebuilt engine was just around the
> corner. I picked up a new water pump at BD today when I was exhchaging
> my EV
> muffler. I still have some short distance camping trips this fall so
> should
> I'm deciding whether to just keep camping or replace the pump in the
> current
> engine even though the engine comes out in 2 months.  It appears to be
> a
> rediculously hard job to do myself and I'm not sure what a mechanic
> would
> charge and if it's worth it.
>
> Murphy's law will kick in now. Since I know about the pump and I'm
> ignoring
> it I know what could happen.
>
> Bryan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On
> Behalf Of
> Mark Dearing
> Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2009 4:39 PM
> To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> Subject: Re: To use Bars Leaks or not.....
>
> In a message dated 9/16/2009 4:29:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> mbucchino@CHARTER.NET writes:
>
> I  reiterate, if you don't want a catastrophic water pump failure,
> replace
> the water pump.  No "leak stop" material, regardless of  brand, is
> going to
> reverse or stop the water pump damage that is  causing the leak there.
> Internal parts are worn, and they will  continue to wear until
> suddenly the
> pump seizes.  When it does,  all hell will break loose.  If you remove
> the
> worn pump, and  try to turn it by hand, you'll find that it turns with
> difficulty  compared to a new pump, likely with a grinding feel when
> it
> turns.  Bearings, shaft, something is damaged.
> The leak is only  a sign of internal wear.