It's likely uf.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924

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-----Original Message-----
From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM] On Behalf Of
Rocket J Squirrel
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2009 9:06 PM
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject: Re: ARRRGGGHHH Re: Tantalum capacitors to stop blinking temp LED

Maybe the writer was using Old School nomenclature. mF was how we old guys
wrote "microfarad" in the days of olde. It's been changed to uF.

If he meant millifarads, a seldom-used unit,* then yeah, 10mF would work,
but that's normally written 10,000uF.

Either way, you'll want an aluminum electrolytic or a tantalum 'cause a
10uF film cap, even in the lowest voltage (63v typ.) would be fairly large.

=========
* Which isn't to say that I don't frequently use "nanofarad" to fit
between micro and pico.

--
Mike "Rocket J Squirrel" Elliott
84 Westfalia: Mellow Yellow ("The Electrical Banana")
74 Westrailia: (Ladybug Trailer company, San Juan Capistrano, Calif.)
Bend, OR
KG6RCR

On 9/28/2009 6:36 PM Mike S wrote:

> At 07:10 PM 9/28/2009, David Beierl wrote...
>> Gentlemen, we're mixing two subjects.  The 22uF is to damp the output
>> of the AFM.
>>
>> The cap for the temp gauge is smaller, I'm sure.  I rather suspect
>> 10uF, but I'll have to look inside one to be sure.
>
> This says 10 mF :
> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=168239 That pretty
> much implies the need for an electrolytic.
>
> My understanding is that the constant blinking is caused by a leaky
> cap. It is probably just there as part of an RC circuit so the LED
> blinks for a bit at power-on. Perhaps simply removing the old cap will
> allow proper operation, except for that power-on indication.
>