It may not be that simple, but if that is what you wnat to try - go for
it. But by all means let us know how it works out. Pictures would be
great also.

John Rodgers
88 GL Driver

Robert Stewart wrote:
> I think its great the the vendors have fixes for us. But I can not
> afford to wait for shipping and paying for expedited overnight
> shipping for $200 dollar plus hose, when its something that I can go
> to the local store and have made for me in less than an hour for
> $80-$90 dollars.
>
> I am just trying to wrap my head around the fittings now.
>
> Going to spend $80-$90 dollars for a hose with 4000 PSI operating
> pressure and burst rate at 16,000pis from Napa or comparable store.
>
> Just putting it out there.
>
> Thanks to everyone for there responses.
>
> Robert
>
> On Oct 26, 2009, at 2:55 PM, Ken Wilford wrote:
>
>> We have been making and selling these replacement power steering line
>> kits for about four or five years now.  We charge $225 for our kits but
>> they are all hydraulic hose which I think is superior to copper in a
>> couple of ways.  One is that the hose is very flexible so you can
>> actually leave the old rusted lines in place over the gas tank area and
>> run the lines through the tunnel on the top of the gas tank if you wish
>> (that is what I do).  Just tie wrap them in place, hook them up on each
>> end and you are done.  Install is very quick and easy.  You are
>> replacing your lines with something that will never rust so you have to
>> like that.  The high pressure hose we use is 3000 psi burst pressure.
>> Way more than your power steering system will ever see.  So if you want
>> to try to save a few dollar and roll your own by all means that is fine
>> it is a free country.  If you want something you can just put in and be
>> done in a hour, I would recommend your kits.  Our power steering hose
>> kit part number is pshosekit on our site.
>>
>>
>> Ken Wilford
>> John 3:16
>> www.vanagain.com
>>
>>
>> Janne Ruohom�ki wrote:
>>> On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 7:06 PM, Robert Stewart
>>> <robertmstewart@mac.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I need some guidance please.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Now I don't know if I am going to be much of help but when something
>>> brakes I am obsessed by the reasons which led to brakedown.
>>>
>>> ...
>>>
>>>> Got home and it was empty. So I look today to see if I can see
>>>> anything. I had the lines replaced the fat & thin lines with copper
>>>> ones in 2007 I believe. I am noticing some red fluid around some areas
>>>> of the lines but I can't be sure where its really coming from.
>>>>
>>>
>>> I have no personal experience in copper lines but have been thinking
>>> about making ones. I dont think copper lines should corrode this fast.
>>> Can You tell if there are any signs of corrosion in your lines ? And
>>> do You drive in salty environment ?
>>>
>>>
>>>> Where are the key areas to look for leaks?
>>>>
>>>
>>> I am just about to remove my corresponding lines from -90 syncro 2.1
>>> wbx. Not sure if they are similar pipes at all, but mine are almost
>>> completely corroded almost the whole way. It starts right after the
>>> engine bay all the way to front. They didnt leak so far but I am
>>> replacing them as I am removing almost everything anyways.
>>>
>>> For stress fractures or similar I would check the endpoints and
>>> joints. Also places long runs of unsupporterd pipe could vibrate and
>>> create such. I noticed that the original piping in my syncro was quite
>>> rigidly connected to body with rubber bushings in supports. And there
>>> were quite many of those supports, thats probably the reason why it
>>> did not leak at all but the piping looked like it would leak
>>> immediately almost everywhere.
>>>
>>> ...
>>>
>>>> Is this an easy job for one person to do in their backyard?
>>>> How long should it take?
>>>> If I brought the lines to a mechanic with a lift how long should it
>>>> take to replace the lines and add the fluid?
>>>>
>>>
>>> Deadlines deadlines.. What a terrible attitude and I am so bad in
>>> giving time estimates ;)
>>>
>>> Now but seriously, of course it can be done in backyard. It can even
>>> be done in the forest, if You need to. You need to keep the fluids
>>> clean and dry though. And one reason why I am considering other
>>> alternatives than solid stainless: I can get home without this
>>> apparatus, the power steering. I actually like to drive cars without
>>> it, especially 4wd.
>>>
>>> I would reserve almost whole day to this. I would at least, some could
>>> probably do this quite fast. Including removal of the old ones. You
>>> really don't want those lines left so that they will rub into
>>> something or wiggle.
>>>
>>> Did I understand this correctly: You have non-flexible solid pipes
>>> currently, the ones that are leaking and the ones described would be
>>> made of more flexible stuff ? I would at least try to run those such
>>> through some place in the underbody where they can just lay, instead
>>> of hanging them. Its pretty long way from the engine to front of the
>>> van.
>>>
>>>
>
>