I'll add to what Andrew suggested - tapping. Find a socket you can fit with
a hammer, then give it two minutes of tapping to loosen up the rust. I've
removed unrecognizable rusted exhaust nuts/bolts this (slow) way with no
damage.

Angus Gordon
Bainbridge Island WA

birdworks@gmail.com

On Mon, Jan 18, 2010 at 1:46 PM, Andrew Philbrick <herrschildkrote@gmail.com
> wrote:

> Hey Aaron,
>
> Two things that have always helped me with rusty bolts are a set of damaged
> bolt removers and some PB Blaster.  Rust is quite common in my neck of the
> woods so I've dealt with quite a bit of rusted exhausted.
>
> The bolt removers are here -
> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952060000P?keyword=bolt+out They
> are not too expensive and cover most of the sizes you'll need.  PB Blaster
> can be found in most hardware and auto parts stores here.  If not, their
> site is http://www.pbblaster.com/.  Thirdly, I like using vice grips to
> get
> the studs out.  Sometimes the studs come out with the bolt but sometimes
> they don't.  Removing rusted exhaust is never an easy job so patience
> should
> be your friend.
>
> Also, be careful using the plumber's torch.  Similarly to removing spark
> plugs when the engine is warm, if you heat up the aluminum head, it is
> possible to strip out the threads.
>
> Andrew
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 18, 2010 at 3:10 PM, Aaron <a.robinson.lists@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> So my first questions in this undertaking are:
> > What's the easiest way to remove a rusty exhaust (especially the studs in
> > the heads)? Is there some special secret? Some tool that turns a helping
> of
> > inept-ness with a few tools into success?
> >
> > I have a gently used exhaust, new gaskets and bolts waiting. I just need
> to
> > figure out the easiest method of getting the old one out of the way. I
> have
> > available: a plumber's torch, wrenches & sockets, hacksaw and a waning
> > desire to not pay someone else to do it.
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Aaron
> > '87 westy (in WA with van from Illinois)
>