if it goes for under a $100, that is an amazing deal.
The wheels only come in 5 packs.

If anyone has any interest in removing seams or underbody coating without chemicals....this is the tool for it.

dylan

________________________________
From: Max Wellhouse <dimwittedmoose@CFU.NET>
To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Sent: Mon, February 15, 2010 8:00:23 PM
Subject: Re: best method/chemical/tool to remove very old pinstripe material

FWIW, there's a Snap on Crud machine on ebay in "perfect working
condition which was at $81 earlier today.� If I only had a compressor.....

DM&FS

At 04:09 PM 2/15/2010, Bobby Brown wrote:
>Thanks for the the tips folks.
>
>Couple of points for me:
>
>
>� � 1. Not gonna spend big $$ on a Snap-On tool, both on principle for brand
>� � and for the $$ because I am only performing this one time. (I used to be
>� � mobile tool dealer and Snap-On was one of the competition).
>� � 2. I am working in the cold months because I am a bone-head because I
>� � could not wait for warmer weather. I just wanted to get my rust & paint
>� � issues resolved.
>� � 3. I am re-painting the entire vehicle. All the glass is out.
>� � 4. I have only hand tools and rechargeable Makita drill.
>� � 5. Looks like I am going with Mineral Spirits and rubber eraser wheel.
>
>Bobby
>
>On Mon, Feb 15, 2010 at 4:42 PM, joel walker <uncajoel@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> > Subject: best method/chemical/tool to remove very old pinstripe material
> >
> >
> >� What best experience do you have removing the old pinstriping? Goo Gone &
> >> plastic scraper? Mineral Spirits? Razor blade? Rubber eraser wheel on
> >> drill?
> >>
> >
> >
> > 3M makes chemicals in a spray can specifically for this
> > purpose/application.
> > called Woodstripe and Decal Remover, and also Woodstripe and Decal Adhesive
> > Remover.
> > the first one gets the decal itself off, the 2nd one gets the gummy
> > adhesive left behind off.
> >
> > not cheap. :( like $20/can. and you need at least 75 degrees outside temps
> > for it to work properly. the first can sprays on and in a minute or so, the
> > decal starts crinkling up and you can just pull it off in strips ... if you
> > pull carefully and slowly, you can get a foot or more at a time. or do like
> > i did, and use one of those smooth plastic yellow bondo-spreader
> thingies to
> > kinda scrape it off ... it doesn't scratch the original paint.
> >
> > but then you've still got some gummy sticky stuff left ... which is where
> > the 2nd can comes in. you can also use 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover
> > (which is also great for tree sap and road tar and bugs and
> such). about $12
> > in a quart can. have to rub a bit, though.
> >
> > now, a couple of things that can go wrong.
> > - if it's too cool/cold, the stuff doesn't work right/quickly. don't even
> > bother if it's below 75F or even in the shade. :(
> > - when you get the pinstriping off, the original paint is bright and shiny
> > underneath. looks just like you still have the pinstriping on when you get
> > the angle of sight just right. :(
> > - if it's painted on, you're screwed ... this stuff does NOT work on paint.
> > it's designed to remove those gawdawful wood panel decals they used to put
> > on the station wagons to make them look like they had wood panels on the
> > doors. and big strips of decals, like the vanagons came with, around the
> > middle in that kinda 'dent' that goes all around.
> >
> > where to find? check the yellow pages for Automotive, and in that section,
> > look for Body Shop Suppliers or Paint Suppliers. you want the
> folks who sell
> > the paint and bondo to the fender fixit shops. call and ask if they have 3M
> > products (some don't).
> >
> > hope it helps. good luck!
> > joel
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>--
>Bobby Brown