Good advice, David. I have a model airplane iron that would probably
be good to fuse the plastic back on.

Thanks,

Jim

On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 10:26 AM, David Beierl <dbeierl@attglobal.net> wrote:
> Dear Jim,
> At 10:23 AM 3/12/2010, Jim Felder wrote:
>>
>> would like to repair bridge the gap with some of that window defroster
>> repair stuff that everybody talks about.
>
> A flexible-circuit repair pen would be better. �It's silver-based. �The
> copper-based defroster-repair stuff is meant to repair heating elements and
> has a higher resistance accordingly. �Check sources at
> <http://www.google.com/search?q=flex+circuit+repair+pen> �Chemtronics is a
> highly reputable brand, incidentally.
>
>> �But, before I do, I need to
>> reattach several inched of loose copper that burned away from the
>> mylar backing as well as tidy up a few other places where the laminate
>> has rolled back at the edges.
>
> For the loose edges, the first thing I'd try would be a household iron set
> to polyester, lots of pressure (use iron edge) and stay on it a good while.
> �If that didn't give great results, see below on tape:
>
>
>> Superglue would probably do a great job in the short run, but it would
>> probably not stay attached to the mylar. Any ideas of what to use for
>> this repair? Thin double stick tape?
>
> Take a look at
> <http://www.tapecase.com/c.148.1.1/double-coated-tape-polyester-film.aspx>.
> Clearly whatever adhesive they're using on polyester tapes must stick to
> polyester ok. �I'd recommend to check with either 3M or this outfit's
> application support people for advice on the best one to use. �I suspect it
> will be one of the ones with acrylic adhesive. �I'd also check with them to
> see if 3M Super 77 spray adhesive would be applicable -- it's definitely
> good stuff, like everything 3M does.
>
> Yours,
> DAvid
>
>
>