Might be best to *not* do the sparking and the spraying test at the
same time.   :-)

Larry A.

On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 1:49 PM, mark drillock <mdrillock@cox.net> wrote:
> 1. remove only center lead from dizzy cap
> 2. remove dizzy cap and push it aside hanging from other wires
> 3. loosen 13mm nut holding down dizzy clamp, leave it on by only a
> thread or 2
> 4. make note of which way rotor is pointing exactly
> 5. pull dizzy up as far as the loosened nut will allow
> 6. very that now the rotor can be turned by hand
> 7. turn on key switch, DON'T crank engine
> 8. hold loose end of removed center wire near metal on engine
> 9. turn rotor by hand a few turns
>
> 10.... you should see big sparks from the center wire to the engine
> metal...you should hear relays clicking in the relay box by the
> coil...you should hear the fuel pump run each time you turn the
> rotor...you may hear the injectors clicking as they spray
>
>
> 11. After this test, turn off key switch, turn rotor till pointing where
> it all started, push dizzy all the way back down into place, wiggling
> rotor if needed, tighten 13mm nut, leave cap off!
>
> 12. make certain you can't turn the rotor anymore with firm force,
> proving the dizzy is down all the way and in it's timing slot
>
> 13. put back cap and center wire
>
> 14. wait 5 minutes then start engine. the wait is to let the intake dry
> out some from the fuel injected during the test. you may need to hold
> the pedal down too or wait even longer if you turned the rotor a lot.
>
> (this test can also be used to check that injectors are spraying. remove
> hold down screw from one side fuel rail and pull out injector pair,
> leaving all hoses and wires alone. repeat steps 1- 9 above while
> watching injector tips during step 9. There should be cone shaped spray
> from both for each 1/4 turn of the rotor)
>