

| Subject: | Re: Holy cow: rear hatch latch |
| From: | Scott Daniel - Turbovans |
| Date: | Sat, 13 Mar 2010 20:46:38 -0800 |
What's good about using a modern spray synthetic lube is that it's water displacing ... pretty sure it is. Like wd-40 but thicker. and that's good for lock cylinders ....at least in my world. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Fisher" <garciasghostvw@GMAIL.COM> To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM> Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2010 6:15 PM Subject: Re: Holy cow: rear hatch latch I too have often heard that you shouldn't put anything into a lock as well, and I have also used graphite effectively in house locks; however those aren't subject to the same environment (I'm thinking grease/oil) that you get out on the road. It sounds like maybe you need to lube the outside of the cylinder/button and not the lock itself. I don't see a problem with that. How many Westies do you have, anyway? Cya, Robert -----Original Message----- From: Vanagon Mailing List [mailto:vanagon@gerry.vanagon.com] On Behalf Of Dave Mcneely Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2010 5:11 PM To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM Subject: Re: Holy cow: rear hatch latch Sometimes when I depress the lock cylinder to open the rear hatch on my camper, the cylinder sticks in the depressed position. It will pop back out when I close the hatch, usually. Occasionally I have to bump the hatch adjacent to the lock. Is this due to a need for lubrication, and if so, what lubricant do I use? I have had locksmiths tell me not to lube a lock with anything, including graphite, claiming any lubricant would cause the lock to hold dirt. On the other hand, I have used graphite to great advantage so far as I could tell. Suggestions? Thanks, David McNeely ---- jon <jon@KENNEKE.COM> wrote: > I'm sharing this experience, so maybe someone can benefit: > > I went to open the rear hatch on my project westy today. It would not > open. No big deal, I thought, I'll just pop it from the inside. Installing > a new interior panel with the original project at hand, so there was no > interior > panel. > > I could not get the "cam" to budge! I finally had to soak the mechanism in > oil, and then use a screwdriver and small hammer to pound the latch cam > from the inside to release. Wow, that took some doing, with scratched arms > and hands! > > When it finally popped, I pulled the whole corroded assembly out, cleaned > it, and oiled it. Since I had it out I also fixed the worn lock cylinder > (which is a whole 'nother subject/story). > > So, the moral of this story is to make sure that latch assembly is well > lubricated if you have the chance! > > Jon
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