>>>>The LIsle Tool Co. here in Iowa makes a wonderful tool to pop
>>>>door panels and salvage a lot of the hold down fasteners.  It's a
>>>>bent screwdriver thngy with a thicker shaft, bright red handle
>>>>and maybe a 30 degree bend  in it and a slick looking fork end on
>>>>it for prying.  Paid maybe 6 or 7 bucks for it.  Too bad I didn't
>>>>have it when I Dynamatted my rear hatch.  Rather than deal with
>>>>finding another back panel in a bone yard, or mess with pegboard
>>>>, plywood, or paneling, I went to the local plastic shop and
>>>>bought a sheet of 3/16" ABS textured plastic in black.  Don't
>>>>remember what I paid for it, but that was like 10 years ago..  I
>>>>used the old chewed up one for a template and where to drill the
>>>>new holes.  It fit perfectly and looks very nice back
>>>>there.  Used regular push pin thingys from the auto parts store
>>>>to install it and i've had it out a few times since with wiper
>>>>washer hose issues and had no trouble prying it off or
>>>>reinstalling it with the Lisle tool.  If the factory push thngys
>>>>break on you, I strongly recommend that you re drill the metal;
>>>>holes in the back hatch to American sizes and use the US push pin
>>>>fasteners appropriate for the size hole you drilled.

>>>>One of my shade tree mechanic credos is "to make access easier
>>>>for the next person that needs in there".  That could include
>>>>antiseizing nuts and bolts and many other
>>>>applications.  Replacing phillips head scews with allen head or
>>>>hex head screws if there's clearance and if the threads are
>>>>exposed to rust formation.  Replacing the 4mm phillips screws
>>>>that hold down the 2.5 EJ25 SOHC Idle Air Control Valve come to
>>>>mind.  4mm stainless steel bolts and washers work really well.

YMMV

DM&FS