On 3/23/10, Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@gmail.com> wrote:

> You drove my '84 and used the brakes, no? On any car, the pedal should NEVER
> bottom out - you have a serious problem there neighbour!

Yes I drove it thanks, but not enough to recall pedal feel. I do know
that your brakes "grabbed" better. Like less effort, more positive
braking feel.

Ok. Read your email. Took it out for a spin.

> Does the pedal 'pump up'?  i.e., if you mash it repeatedly does the travel
> shorten/pedal become firmer as air in the system compresses?
> Otherwise you are having a hydraulic pressure loss which is usually a master
> cylinder problem.

Not really. Maybe a **little** firmer + higher pedal. Repeated
pushing, I hear the booster, but pushing fairly hard, pedal will go
down until I hear/feel a subtle "thud" as pedal stops.

Feels like air in system but maybe MC is faulty. Should be ok as was
new a few years/low KM"s ago but .... <shrugs>

Though I'm too precautious about not setting shoes too "tight" drum,
they should be ok. i.e. engine running, standing on brakes, set
e-brake, pedal stays same height.

> When you start the motor with your foot on the brake pedal after having
> pumped it a couple of times, does the pedal push back up?

No.  Pump it a few times, hold pedal down, start, pedal sinks a little.

Help much appreciated,

Neil.

> Concerned in Crescent Beach
>
> On Tue, Mar 23, 2010 at 8:54 PM, neil n <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi all.
>>
>> I've owned one Vanagon. I know what an outright "wrong" pedal feels
>> like but not what a proper Vanagon brake pedal feels like. Like from
>> 0-10, 2 -3 = normal driving pedal pressure, 10 = total stain yer pants
>> panic stop pressure, pushed at level 7, my pedal eventually stops
>> against what I assume is metal. Brakes fine otherwise. I've done lots
>> of work on them (* below)
>>
>> Does this mean air in system? Should a good pedal NEVER bottom out?
>> Like pushed to 10, should it feel like it's up against something solid
>> but not bottoming out against a stop of some kind?
>>
>> To ensure air not the culprit, I pressure bled them. (finally built a
>> pressure bleeder. Used one-man valve before). Pressurizing reservoir
>> with air to 12 PSI, I saw a steady stream from all bleeders, NO
>> bubbles, no change in pedal feel over previous method. Of note, fronts
>> bled noticeably faster. Used ~ 3/4 litre.
>>
>> In archives, these caught my eye: Rear wheel cylinder position (early
>> MY) and brake switch(s) air bound. (MC replacement)
>>
>> Again no point of reference, but for some time it's seemed that my
>> pedal requires slightly more than normal pressure required to activate
>> brake lights.
>>
>> I replaced MC not long after buying Westy. I don't recal bleeding the
>> switch. How is this done? Likely that info is in archives.
>>
>> It drives with no *real* issues. I just want to be sure there's NO air
>> in system.
>>
>> Thanks for taking time to read.
>>
>> Neil.
>>
>>
>> * AFAIK, only parts not replaced over last few years: hard lines from
>> MC to calipers. Proportioning valve. All replaced parts still ok.
>>
>> Over last few years (calipers + related not long ago)
>>
>> - Booster, (check valve too IIRC) pedal cluster rebuilt, MC. Checked
>> push rod spec.
>> - Flex hoses, calipers, pads, hardware, rotors/bearings
>> - Drums, shoes (Raybestos deluxe) hardware, cylinders. From prop.
>> valve to rear, all steel and flex lines
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"
>>
>> http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
>>
>>
>> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Jake
>
> 1984 Vanagon GL
> 1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"
>
> Crescent Beach, BC
>
> www.thebassspa.com
> www.crescentbeachguitar.com
> http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27
>

--
Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"

http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/

http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines