Thanks much Jake.

I'll visually double check, but no. Not to floor. I just feel a and
hear a subtle dull "thud" when pedal stops. But not like metal on
metal.

I'll check under Mark D for post regarding booster. But damn. Booster
was new at time of MC.

I'll also inspect check valve etc. It's from an '85 (for engine swap)

Ack. At least I saved the old one! ha!

Neil.

On 3/23/10, Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@gmail.com> wrote:
> Damn, I'm up to my eyeballs right now what with the Subaru install and uh,
> work or I'd come on over there!
>
> Pedal goes down to where - floor or ?
>
> Kinda sounds like your booster isn't.
> I'm pretty sure Mark posted on boosters recently - you might do a quick scan
> of the Archives...
>
> On Tue, Mar 23, 2010 at 10:50 PM, neil n <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> On 3/23/10, Jake de Villiers <crescentbeachguitar@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> > You drove my '84 and used the brakes, no? On any car, the pedal should
>> NEVER
>> > bottom out - you have a serious problem there neighbour!
>>
>>
>> Yes I drove it thanks, but not enough to recall pedal feel. I do know
>> that your brakes "grabbed" better. Like less effort, more positive
>> braking feel.
>>
>> Ok. Read your email. Took it out for a spin.
>>
>>
>> > Does the pedal 'pump up'?  i.e., if you mash it repeatedly does the
>> travel
>> > shorten/pedal become firmer as air in the system compresses?
>> > Otherwise you are having a hydraulic pressure loss which is usually a
>> master
>> > cylinder problem.
>>
>>
>> Not really. Maybe a **little** firmer + higher pedal. Repeated
>> pushing, I hear the booster, but pushing fairly hard, pedal will go
>> down until I hear/feel a subtle "thud" as pedal stops.
>>
>> Feels like air in system but maybe MC is faulty. Should be ok as was
>> new a few years/low KM"s ago but .... <shrugs>
>>
>> Though I'm too precautious about not setting shoes too "tight" drum,
>> they should be ok. i.e. engine running, standing on brakes, set
>> e-brake, pedal stays same height.
>>
>>
>> > When you start the motor with your foot on the brake pedal after having
>> > pumped it a couple of times, does the pedal push back up?
>>
>>
>> No.  Pump it a few times, hold pedal down, start, pedal sinks a little.
>>
>> Help much appreciated,
>>
>> Neil.
>>
>>
>>
>> > Concerned in Crescent Beach
>> >
>> > On Tue, Mar 23, 2010 at 8:54 PM, neil n <musomuso@gmail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> Hi all.
>> >>
>> >> I've owned one Vanagon. I know what an outright "wrong" pedal feels
>> >> like but not what a proper Vanagon brake pedal feels like. Like from
>> >> 0-10, 2 -3 = normal driving pedal pressure, 10 = total stain yer pants
>> >> panic stop pressure, pushed at level 7, my pedal eventually stops
>> >> against what I assume is metal. Brakes fine otherwise. I've done lots
>> >> of work on them (* below)
>> >>
>> >> Does this mean air in system? Should a good pedal NEVER bottom out?
>> >> Like pushed to 10, should it feel like it's up against something solid
>> >> but not bottoming out against a stop of some kind?
>> >>
>> >> To ensure air not the culprit, I pressure bled them. (finally built a
>> >> pressure bleeder. Used one-man valve before). Pressurizing reservoir
>> >> with air to 12 PSI, I saw a steady stream from all bleeders, NO
>> >> bubbles, no change in pedal feel over previous method. Of note, fronts
>> >> bled noticeably faster. Used ~ 3/4 litre.
>> >>
>> >> In archives, these caught my eye: Rear wheel cylinder position (early
>> >> MY) and brake switch(s) air bound. (MC replacement)
>> >>
>> >> Again no point of reference, but for some time it's seemed that my
>> >> pedal requires slightly more than normal pressure required to activate
>> >> brake lights.
>> >>
>> >> I replaced MC not long after buying Westy. I don't recal bleeding the
>> >> switch. How is this done? Likely that info is in archives.
>> >>
>> >> It drives with no *real* issues. I just want to be sure there's NO air
>> >> in system.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks for taking time to read.
>> >>
>> >> Neil.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> * AFAIK, only parts not replaced over last few years: hard lines from
>> >> MC to calipers. Proportioning valve. All replaced parts still ok.
>> >>
>> >> Over last few years (calipers + related not long ago)
>> >>
>> >> - Booster, (check valve too IIRC) pedal cluster rebuilt, MC. Checked
>> >> push rod spec.
>> >> - Flex hoses, calipers, pads, hardware, rotors/bearings
>> >> - Drums, shoes (Raybestos deluxe) hardware, cylinders. From prop.
>> >> valve to rear, all steel and flex lines
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> --
>> >> Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"
>> >>
>> >> http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > Jake
>> >
>> > 1984 Vanagon GL
>> > 1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"
>> >
>> > Crescent Beach, BC
>> >
>> > www.thebassspa.com
>> > www.crescentbeachguitar.com
>> > http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27
>> >
>>
>>
>> --
>> Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"
>>
>> http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/
>>
>>
>> http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Jake
>
> 1984 Vanagon GL
> 1986 Westy Weekender "Dixie"
>
> Crescent Beach, BC
>
> www.thebassspa.com
> www.crescentbeachguitar.com
> http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27
>

--
Neil Nicholson '81 VanaJetta 2.0 "Jaco"

http://tubaneil.googlepages.com/

http://groups.google.com/group/vanagons-with-vw-inline-4-cylinder-gas-engines