you are right, in that the axle will just move inward on the outer end after
undoing the nut.
if the splines are not stuck or rusted.
and I think you have to undo at least a tie rod end ....
and maybe even remove the caliper, since the brake hose also limits how far
out the hub will flop , so you can get enough room to push the axle in  far
enough to get it out of there.   After undoing the inner end of course.

if anything is corroded or  stuck or tending to get that way, it's better to
take it apart and reassemble now, so any corrosion is addressed that's
there.
more work, but better in the long run.
I get nervous when things are left together for years and years,
particularly if the van is operated in slush, snow, mud etc much.

Scott

----- Original Message -----
From: "Alistair Bell" <albell@SHAW.CA>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2010 12:52 PM
Subject: syncro - front cv joint r&r

>I have never done this on a syncro before...
>
> I need to replace torn boot on front right inner cv joint. I'd prefer
> to take entire front axle out and regrease both ends while I am at
> it, and looking at bentley it seems the front outer cv joint is only
> held in by nut at end of shaft....but is it really that simple?
>
> i seem to recall hearing that its more involved, steering knuckle
> removal needed to get clearance etc.
>
> I'm not in the mood for a struggle, so if I hear that its a bear,
> I'll just drop the inner joint and replace boot/repack cv joint in situ.
>
> cheers
>
> alistair