

| Subject: | Re: A little more on Cooling problems..inline vw in vanagon |
| From: | Scott Chapman |
| Date: | Tue, 27 Apr 2010 11:39:02 -0400 |
Don, Where do you get a billet aluminum fuel injector rail ? Don Hanson wrote: > Yesterday I went over my '92 Golf/Jetta/Rabbit gas-powered 1.8liter VW > inline van (84 low top westie) following up on some suggestions from helpful > list members, chasing down some strange cooling system behavior I began > seeing recently. > I've seen a change to cooler than normal operating temps...until it > boiled over on Sunday. I've had excess coolant level in the overflow tank, > too. No loss of power or poor running..just the temperature anomalies. > > So I pulled the plugs (they alll look perfect) and put about 20psi > compressed air into the coolant pressure tank, then listened (with a pipe) > to each spark plug hole for escaping coolant coming into the cylinder. > Nothing. I blew out the pressure cap on the coolant pressure res. and > replaced the hose to the overflow tank..it was a bit old and possibly > leaky. I found my spare thermostat and tested it in boiling water, then > replaced the one in the van with that. I shut down the valve to the rear > heater and inspected all the hoses and connections everywhere. Then I > re-filled and re-bled the cooling system very carefully. > > Alas! I still see some bubbles coming into the pressure > reservoir..confirming I probably will still see head gasket or head (proper) > problems. So I found and ordered parts online..$31 for the headgasket and > $27 for new headbolts and washers. When those arrive, I'll be pulling the > head (which you can do with the motor in the van) to see where the > combustion gasses are escaping into the coolant. > I've also been putting off installing a billet aluminum fuel injector rail > (fire prevention measure), now I can do that. If the head is not damaged, I > don't even have to touch the valves or camshaft, so the R&R of the > headgasket should be about 1/2 day's process...if I don't break anything and > do it correctly the first time. > > I'm posting this to perhaps give some data to those with problematic > motors in vanagons. To those who may be debating either fixing their engine > problems, rebuilding their existing motors or choosing one of the > engine-swaps, you might be interested in the relative repair simplicity and > economy of an inline VW gas motors. I am not advocating "My" type engine as > the best in a vanagon...I am truthfully relating the experience I've had. > I've been finding this van remarkably inexpensive and simple with adequate > performance and good fuel consumption. ~$60 and half a day in your garage > with hand tools, you can't beat that for a leaky combustion chamber problem > repair, can ya? (I know..."Best case scenario only") > > I probably should have had the head surfaced professionally when I > replaced a headgasket about 35k miles ago. That time, I screwed up the > bleeding process, being new to Vanagon cooling systems, and overheated my > motor. I assessed the head's true-ness with my steel carpenter's framing > square, then lapped it a little on a piece of plate glass, deciding that was > probably "good enuf" but I probably should have sent it out to a > machinist.. > > Don Hanson > > >
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