Nevermind, I finally dug up a post on the samba.
This is more for my future reference so that I can search my gmail if I
forget this.

*HIGH is behind the rear quarter panel, LOW is on the "J" pipe coming out of
the top/back of the compressor.*

after pulling a -1bar which I think is ~(29in.hg)  began to fill system and
compressor kicked on, was just about to start putting in second 12oz can
when BAM steam and coolant comes from under the back seat. :( no fixie
today, maybe NEXT month I'll get my a/c fixed....after replacing my heater
hoses(and/or the control valve...orings...heater core)

if it ain't one thing it's another.

peace,
-Ry
http://www.google.com/profiles/rylincoln

On Fri, May 14, 2010 at 10:41 PM, Ry <rylincoln@gmail.com> wrote:

> So I'm confused and feeling a little dumb at the moment about which port is
> the High and which port is the Low pressure side.  THe diagram in the
> Bentley is not identical to how my 1991 Carat looks.
>
> What I believe based on my interpretation of the "not exactly like mine"
> diagram in Bentley is that the port that is under the drivers side rear
> quarter panel is the LOW pressure side and that the port on the "J" pipe
> coming off the compressor is the HIGH side.   Can anyone please confirm this
> for me?  I just want to be super sure.
>
> All o-rings replaced, new condenser and new dryer.
>
> Thanks
>
> -Ry
> http://www.google.com/profiles/rylincoln
>
>
> On Fri, May 14, 2010 at 11:23 AM, Ry <rylincoln@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks.  Good to know.  I'll probably go ahead and disconnect since I have
>> replacement hoses ready and waiting to be put on.  Depends on how ambitious
>> I get. :)
>>
>> -Ry
>> http://www.google.com/profiles/rylincoln
>>
>>
>> On Fri, May 14, 2010 at 10:17 AM, Jake de Villiers <
>> crescentbeachguitar@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Ry, you don't have to disconnect the hoses to drop the rad - there's
>>> plenty of length there - but you can if you want to.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, May 14, 2010 at 7:07 AM, Ry <rylincoln@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thanks guys.   Seems I'll be dropping the radiator at same time as
>>>> condenser
>>>> and replacing the two coolant hoses to it since I have them on hand.
>>>>  Seems
>>>> the best time to do it is now.
>>>>
>>>> cheers,
>>>> -Ry
>>>> http://www.google.com/profiles/rylincoln
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 4:06 PM, Dave Mcneely <mcneely4@cox.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> > Thanks Keith
>>>> >
>>>> > ---- Keith Hughes <keithahughes@q.com> wrote:
>>>> > > On 5/13/2010 1:13 PM, mcneely4@cox.net wrote:
>>>> > > > ---- Keith Hughes<keithahughes@Q.COM>  wrote:
>>>> > > > but you'd be miles
>>>> > > >
>>>> > > >> ahead if you replaced the stock condenser with a newer cross-flow
>>>> > > >> style.  The stock condensers are really inadequate for use with
>>>> 134-A
>>>> > if
>>>> > > >> you live anywhere hot (like here in Phoenix AZ).  You can get
>>>> > conversion
>>>> > > >> fittings/hoses and a new condenser for about the price of a new
>>>> OEM
>>>> > unit.
>>>> > > >>
>>>> > > > Keith, please tell us more about the "cross-flow" style condensor,
>>>> such
>>>> > as where to get it, and exactly how it is better than the original.  I
>>>> live
>>>> > and travel in hot places, and I am converting my camper AC system to
>>>> 134-A,
>>>> > along with searching out a leak and hopefully repairing it.  If I need
>>>> a new
>>>> > condenser, perhaps I should get one of these.
>>>> > > >
>>>> > > > Thanks, David McNeely
>>>> > > >
>>>> > > David,
>>>> > >
>>>> > > The cross-flow styles are a combination series-parallel design that
>>>> use
>>>> > > higher surface area to internal volume tubes like the radiators do.
>>>> > > They have multiple tubes paralleled together that dump into a common
>>>> > > manifold that then does through a second set of paralleled tubes
>>>> before
>>>> > > exiting.  The number of parallel/series modules depends on the size
>>>> of
>>>> > > the unit.  In addition to the higher surface area, the flow rate in
>>>> the
>>>> > > tubes is significantly lower (multiple paths instead of one
>>>> serpentine
>>>> > > tube) allowing more residence time and greater heat transfer.  They
>>>> are
>>>> > > typically made out of aluminum, and the biggest downside is that the
>>>> > > tubes are quite small, and they cannot be effectively cleaned.  The
>>>> unit
>>>> > > I used was under $100, so if it clogs, replacement won't break the
>>>> bank.
>>>> > >
>>>> > > I got all my stuff from Arizona Mobile Air (www.ackits.com) since
>>>> > > they're here in Phoenix, but there are a number of places on the web
>>>> you
>>>> > > can find similar units.  Search for universal cross-flow condenser
>>>> and
>>>> > > you should find quite a variety. If you go that route, source out
>>>> the
>>>> > > largest you can find that'll fit, 'cause you'll need all the surface
>>>> > > area you can get when you switch refrigerants.  You might consider
>>>> > > getting two 17W x 12H units (IIRC, the stock is 17W x 19H), and
>>>> stacking
>>>> > > them in series.  You'll need a short connector hose fabricated, but
>>>> that
>>>> > > configuration will give you about the maximum size you can fit.  I
>>>> was
>>>> > > never able to find a single unit that was the right size.  I used a
>>>> 17W
>>>> > > x 15H unit which was the same surface area as the old one (I had the
>>>> > > early split condenser - smaller than what you have), and the R-134A
>>>> > > performance is slightly better than it was with R-12 and the old
>>>> > > condenser. Next time I get ambitious, I'm changing out to the dual
>>>> setup
>>>> > > to increase capacity.  I'd hate to see what the performance would
>>>> have
>>>> > > been with the old condenser.
>>>> > >
>>>> > > Keith Hughes
>>>> > > '86 Westy Tiico (Marvin)
>>>> >
>>>> > --
>>>> > David McNeely
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>  Jake
>>>
>>> 1984 Vanagon GL 1.9 WBX 'The Grey Van'
>>> 1986 Westy Weekender/2.5 SOHC Suby 'Dixie'
>>>
>>> Crescent Beach, BC
>>>
>>> www.thebassspa.com
>>> www.crescentbeachguitar.com
>>> http://subyjake.googlepages.com/mydixiedarlin%27
>>>
>>>
>>
>