thanks for mentioning this David.
there is a 'technique' to 'getting the cut' ...
the right combo of pressure and speed,
and slower is better generally.

whatever you do, don't snap off a cobalt drill bit in a hole you are
drilling !
they are more brittle than High Speed steel drill bits..
there's a drill with the kit anyway ...
HSS most likely.

drilling 'up' is kinda hard sometimes too.
Since I use machinist's cutting oil as a water pump lube and rust inhibitor
in cooling system ( a cup or so in the whole van ) I use that for a cutting
oil.

what fun.
scott
turbovans
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Beierl" <dbeierl@ATTGLOBAL.NET>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 7:26 PM
Subject: Re: noise SOLVED. Now need to Heli-Coil?

> At 09:55 PM 6/14/2010, pickle vanagon wrote:
>>But I think I'm going to try the helicoil repair this weekend.  I don't
>>want
>>to run 3 bolts long term.  Is the insert really that hard to install?  I
>>figure, after I drill and tap, that the insert must be pretty easy to get
>>in.  And, where I'm' doing it, I'll have easy access.  Not like doing this
>>in an engine compartment.
>
> The hardest part is getting the tap to go in straight.  Compared to
> that, most everything else is dead easy.  If you're not used to
> drilling in steel -- use a drill containing cobalt if possible, use
> cutting fluid (Tap Magic, lard, whatever you're going to use for
> tapping).  Keep the drill speed way down (for this size I'd stay
> below 700 rpm)  and use *heavy* feed pressure.  You want the tool to
> cut and not rub.  Watch out -- if the drill snatches as it breaks
> through, it will snatch your wrist if you let it.  If the drill
> dulls, sharpen or replace it, then turn slower and push harder.  But
> take great care that the tool is always cutting.  If it rubs it may
> work-harden the steel and then you'll have a much more difficult time.
>
> Yours,
> David